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Unfortunately there isn't a super straight forward way of doing it. My first thought was to make a file 73cm x 90cm with a white background and the text centered how it should be. Then go into the execution tab in Rasterlink and send 1 copy with the sheet cut feature turned on 100 times. When...

Try re-installing the driver. if that doesn't work, it's most likely a cable or USB port issue. I don't have a lot of experience with that model so might be off base but it's what happens on most cutters I've worked on when the USB fails.

The Mimaki JFX200 and 500 are known commodities, and great machines, but the JFX600 is brand new and has 16 heads. I'm not saying it's a bad machine by any means but with that many heads, the most likely scenario is you'll have to rely on Mimaki for service. I've seen dealer techs who are scared...

And make sure to set the work folder to the SSD.

I prefer the CJV150 over the JV100. It's a more polished machine.

In that case I would stay away from Roland and any other brand that requires tech credentials to get into service mode. Mutoh requires it for firmware updates but you can still get into service mode on your own. Mimaki has end user firmware updaters and it's pretty easy to find out how to get...

When I change print heads I usually put some vinyl between the head and the platen to make sure I don't dirty up someone's printer when the ink drips out. I've had multiple people ask to keep the resulting "abstract art"

That sounds like a damper issue to me for sure. Unfortunately you can't replace them without taking the head out of that machine. It's one of the pains of that model unfortunately. In the past I have taken that cover off and cut the parts that get in the way of taking damper out so that the next...

As Notarealsignguy mentioned, check your carts. If they are all good, check the bottom of the head for any damage or scratches. The warped look of the nozzles on the bottom part of the magenta look like signs of a head strike.

Mimaki fixes this problem by simply using a sponge material instead of rubber. Might be something worth trying in your experiment.

Contact Mimaki. They'll run samples for you for free.

Our Flexi lap top is in the field so I can't take a look at the moment but how I usually do it is from the Production Manager side of things. You might set the output setting in the RIP and Print window to hold instead of send now, then you can right click on the job in production manager and...

In Flexi there is a tab to the right of the color profile tab that looks like a little printer. Click on that and it will give you the printer driver settings. If the profile supports it, you can switch to unidirectional. If the profile only allows bi-directional, you need to find a profile that...

One of my pet peeves is seeing someone rasterize vector art.

I've seen people use electrical tape to sort of resurface the strip. That might save it temporarily until your cutter comes in.

I just love seeing some of the fake reviews some of our competitors use to make them seem more legitimate. "This print head was the best print head I ever used!" Yeah no one talks about print heads like that!

This indicates more severe damage to the main board unfortunately. Most likely a blown transistor.

Usually if it's a fuse the error will tell you which one. Wouldn't hurt to test them though.

Blow it up to 100% of final size, set your zoom setting to 100% and send them a screenshot of the result. If they still want you to print it, the customer is always right yadda yadda.

The first error you got, error 811, is basically saying the main board and I/O board aren't communicating properly. The second one means the I/O board is no longer detected. At the end of the day either a cable became unplugged or something shorted out causing damage to the boards and/or cables.