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One has 1tb of space and the other has 2tb as well.

If you haven't changed dampers and cap top in about 1 to 2 years, especially on the cap top, I would start there. Do you see any air in the ink line?

I have a customer who runs two CJV150s and prints/cuts batches of about 8 feet all day long. They usually make the crop marks much bigger and there's actually a little area in Rasterlink near the crop mark settings that will suggest a mark size. That might help you get the longer files going...

Does the grit roller continue to spin when the machine stalls after pulling the media through during the "leaf" measurement? If it does, that could indicate that either you're not loading the media in the proper position or the sensor that reads the end of the leaf is not working properly. If it...

I've seen this issue a bunch of times. The cap slider wears out over time and makes the cap engage too late which makes the cap offset just enough to miss the magenta channel during cleanings. Pop a new cap slider in and that should do the trick. In a pinch I've also shimmed the part of the call...

We are parting out a Mutoh VJ1624 that was in full working condition before decommissioning. We have too many used machines at the moment and it's an older machine so we've decided to part it out. We sell used parts at 50% cost. Feel free to call 303-733-6671.

Could be static or electrical for sure but I would start by inspecting and cleaning the encoder strip. How's the nozzle check look?

Kroy Sign Systems is a manufacturer that comes to mind but there are a bunch as mentioned above.

I usually select all objects, copy and paste in front, merge the new objects together into one shape, and then expand in Illustrator. If I need a bleed or white area around the decal, I use the offset path function. This works in most cases but sometimes you might need to tweek it a bit.

Bump for anyone who might have missed it.

If you have a website, check with your hosting provider. A lot of the time they will throw in an email for free or cheap.

It's just a good machine for people who are starting out in the flatbed world for the first time. Fairly easy to learn to use and maintain. Lower price point than most full sized flatbeds. You're giving up speed and automation. The higher end ones are much faster and some have auto loaders etc.

Head heat errors occur when there is a short in the head signal circuit or if the room temperature is too high. It's usually a bad cable but if you've changed those, it's probably the head itself failing.

the Ex is faster because it has an extra head. The JFX series is a good entry level flatbed. As mentioned above, not the fastest flatbed out there but fast enough and at great quality for it's price point.

You probably just need a new cap top and make sure the waste tubes are free of clogs. It also looks like you could use a little clean up under the head. You just want to clean up any ink build up around the perimeter of the head surface so it can make a good seal with the cap top. Avoid the...

The head is crooked. You need to go into service mode and run the head slant adjustment. It prints a set of black and magenta lines that you need to make line up using the lever on the right side of the head carriage.

We have a large, laminated, sign facing south in Denver and two, unlaminated, banners that face south as well. We reprint the banners 2 or 3 times before needing to change out the larger sign.

That or find a used board you can scrap from. Ebay might be a good place to look.

Post a nozzle check. if you're only seeing it in light blues, the cyan head is probably missing some nozzles. Darker colors can hide missing nozzles a lot better than light colors.

It's ink flow in my opinion. If it's not a damper issue, it's probably air getting in somewhere along the line. Any air in the lines?