Search results

Take a look at the Mimaki UCVJ300 (printer cutter) or UJV100 (printer only). They are UV based, have white and clear ink if you want, and they are solid machines.

This is what I did before entering the sign world. I've thrown thousands of pizzas in my lifetime. Can't imagine why a press would be any better honestly.

For sure. Arlon actually used to, maybe still does, sell a kit of calendared vinyl with 2mil cast lam for vehicle graphics that aren't a full wrap. The cast lam helps stabilize the vinyl.

Post a nozzle check but that does seem to be a failing head. Could be just deflecting nozzles though. Have you tried a head soak yet?

A temporary fix that I have used in the past is to shim the slider. Basically I cut the plastic handle off a swab and taped it to the part of the slider that comes in contact with the head. It pushes the position of the cap over to the left a little and should allow it to seal. That will at...

In Mimakis the size of the mark also has nothing to do with accuracy. The reason they want you to make it bigger is so if there is any skew in the media feed, it can still catch the mark. The way Mimaki's find the mark is they first detect the change in contrast between the mark and the white...

It is super easy to transfer. It's on the head cover so you just pop it off and put it on the new head. DX7 heads are actually easier to install compared to the DX4 in my opinion. It's a single head so you don't have to align it to other heads.

You can get the original Mimaki head here: OEM Mimaki CJV150 Print Head We also carry the head without the memory board and you use the old one from your current head for much cheaper. You can find that one here: DX7 Head (No Memory Board) We also offer free support so if you get stuck you can...

I've only seen this happen one other time on a CJV150 and it ended up being the head was fried unfortunately. It was even the left 4 channels that dropped exactly like yours.

I placed the order with Mimaki. I'll send tracking ASAP. Thanks!

Online is the best way. You'll get automated updates etc.

$12 for 2 day ground. $75 for overnight unfortunately even from Georgia. I'm surprised there isn't a dealer you can pick-up from near you!

They're a wholesale printer. You have to be a reseller to join so they screen their customers.

If you don't find anyone local, we can drop ship one to you from Mimaki in Georgia. Not sure if they are 1 or 2 day to you though.

There is a small, black, plastic lever towards the back, right side of every cartridge holder. It senses whether the cartridge is physically empty. If that lever gets touched even slightly, it will set the cartridge to, "near end" which is about 1%. If it's broken it usually defaults to 1% as...

Try higher heat as well. But yeah it looks like bad material or simply the profile laying down too much ink.

Make sure your head height lock screws are tight. If they're loose, it won't make a seal. Also make sure there is the rubber stopper on the third nozzle below the cap top. These pumps can be confusing as well. Make sure the tubes are hooked up in the right order. It is possible to hook them up...

If a color that normally fires can't fire in that channel, the head is probably fried unfortunately. The overspray indicates so as well.

Just make sure to check the, "Preserve Illustrator Editing Capabilities" box.

I agree with Terry. Those are head strikes on the first two photos. The third one does look like a bad damper or air leak somewhere in the system. I'd check the ink lines for sir bubbles and replace the damper probably.