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Make sure it's a good sharp bit. Single O flute bits work well you could also try down cut bits also they will leave a clean edge. No bit will give you a perfect mark free bottom some will be better than others and your machine makes a difference also. Colorcore is HDPE not PVC.

Who gave them the option of pvc? You've already wasted more time and money on it than using the correct material the first time.

If your doing alot of aluminum a mister would be good. Not sure you could cut steel with a router in this range with or without it.Vacuum hold down for sure but I don’t think your getting one for a 4x8 table in single phase. Same with spindle probably 3hp+ not sure about single phase for that...

Not sure comparing it to a plotter is apples to apples. I don't think it's as hard as your making it out to be especially since your 2nd panel is small and there's no v carving in it. In composer put a vertical guideline where you want to break it. Use snap to guidelines. Drag the slice and dice...

Vertical cut line is the red line, art path is trying to panel the piece but it exceeds the width of the table. It needs to be broken apart in your design software and cut as two pieces.Is your material 5’? 5’ won’t fit on your table so it can’t be cut in one piece.

Normally if it is just a long panel like a 4x10 it can be paneled in artpath and you would just size the panel where you want it and pull it down. Since your piece is 5x5 it won't fit on the table it needs to be separated into two pieces in composer or whatever design program your using...

Is this a real question?Unless I am missing something, lettering should be the exactly the same on both sides.

Not familiar with ultraboard. Seems like a brand with many different products which one is it?

I'm guessing you were using a spiral upcut bit they will act like a screw and pull themselves out.

Sorry double post.

You could do stripes where the seams would go.But i agree with everybody else chrome on a viper for your 5th wrap is could be an expensive lesson.

Try saving to an earlier version in .eps or .ai.. Import into composer, copy and paste into artpath. Kottwitz suggestions can help. Sometimes putting a small outline on the shapes in Omega can help. Artpath can be a buggy, frustrating program to use. I've been using 20 years and still don't know...

Not knowing your skill level or equipment and only judging by your questions I can't imagine doing that for your first sandblasted sign. I made these for years in a well equipped shop and something that size wouldn't be easy. I don't think it's fair to the customer to experiment with something...

Some of those wide frames are not rubber they are aluminum. Maybe it's worth checking to see what they are.

Just did something very similar. To remove the primer we sprayed it with rapid remover used a lil chisler to loosen it up and then pressure washed it. Stills sucks but not quite as much. We recently had 4 vans and a bus like that to do like that.

So do you have 1 black eye or 2?

Do you tent over the line and force it in or feed it into the line?

Saw this on the local news site, seems like a shame to scrap it. http://lancasteronline.com/news/local/installed-in-single-arch-sign-for-first-lancaster-county-mcdonald/article_b4104ce8-f2a9-11e5-bdca-43a8e769a3a4.html

Should be a small plastic cover in the door edge, take that off. There is one fastener that needs to be loosened and the whole handle comes out. Similar to the new fords if you've done any of those.

I don't know what you could cut on there that would hold up to those temps, even aluminum melts at 1200 degrees. If you were even considering plastics or wood you need to do a lot more research.