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It might be great but it clearly states it is an adhesive remover...not a vinyl remover...

as I posted earlier this week...it took me 1.5 hours to remove a mylar decal 12" x 18".... heat gun, steamer, vinyl zapper all basically failed to get this decal off. In the end I had to use the Zapper and it was brutally slow. I suspect the decal may have been applied before the paint on...

Maybe, but it is an adhesive remover and you have to be careful with them. I have a can of zip adhesive remover and I think it is basically oven cleaner and would never spray it anywhere near a vehicle. The stuff actually starts bubbling away when it hits the surface.... works great on raw...

I almost completely used a zapper wheel on 1 12" x 18" . bad enough you cant see it, and then repeated times of running rapid remover and then finding more and more areas that were not removed. I have it at a point where I am just putting the new lettering on and I don't give a $%^% if there...

I need to know outside of heat gun, steamer, vinyl zapper...just how to remove mylar decals. I do work on a fleet of cabs and many of them are coming over from a different company and we have to remove these 12" x 18" clear decals... I thought I had seen it all, but these are by far the worse...

I hate getting shocks.... My laminator is the worse for that....have seen blue sparks jumping up at me.... After dealing with backing paper, which is where the static seems to come from I usually make a fist and bang my hand on any metal piece on the laminator... Yes the shock still comes...

Happy New Years to all... Hoping 2015 is a great year!!!:smile:

I put a tube heater in 2 years ago and have seen significant savings as to the older gas fan type heater. $325.00 is pretty good...In winter I remember just the gas bill was around $500 in the cold months, and that doesn't include the hydro running the fan. Run them both and get a good even...

I think the proper way to do a floor is to do some form of acid etching first which helps the paint stick better. I have no time or patience for that so we basically bought an epoxy garage floor paint from Lowes. 2 coats and it looks great and really helps me with reflecting light better while...

It stops dead right where the last cut is, and yes there is an error port something message in prod manager. Very rare that I would run such a large cut job, but because the decals were so small, each run was less than 50" x 54".

do you bring vehicles in there? I see a garage door.... If so, winter in Tunder Bay must leave an awful mess lol

I was thinking about re rolling the floor in the back shop white again over the holidays...Looks sort of grey with bits of vinyl stuck everywhere.

I run the Summa via serial port..... Computer does not go into sleep mode either. I just think based on the fact that it stopped all 4 times at the exact same place that there must be some limitation on the file sent.

summa d-140

I ask this as I am running a rather large print cut job. The decals are very small circles and each batch is 5208 cuts. The cutter stops with some sort of port error at about the 90% completion rate...and stops cutting at the exact same place in all 4 runs. Not a big issue as them being so...

In defense of vehicles with wipers... If they put them on, they probably need them. When I owned a mini van it was incredible how much crap was sucked onto the back window. My car virtually gets nothing on it. Having said that I would say what Gino said.

I don't have an answer, but why not laminate them?

One of the reasons that cutting mats are so important. I have seen shops using 1/8" pvc to cut on or tin...but if the knife gets stuck in one of the grooves... bye bye finger tip.

Too many good sports station only on cable...I'm screwed...although I do have a couple of Roku's for Netflix.

Don't want to thread hijack here, but can someone tell me what sort of canvas you print on and maybe some pics of the finished work? I have never done one of these, but might be interesting to try.