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Check into buying a slitter if this is a major issue for you. We routinely require striping for a few major customers so we purchased a slitter. We use it almost every day for slitting 1" off of rolls of laminate (unless we print too near the edges) and cutting down all sorts of rolls. If you...

Clean the room again. Possibly hire (new) cleaners.

I don't know what is wrong with it, but something definitely is. Haven't seen that issue before, but it looks like a bad printhead or some other electrical issue. Does it print all solid colors that way?

I am very pleased with our GFP laminators we have here. VERY easy to learn/use. I am not certain they are actually manufactured in the USA though. I don't see it on their website. We run a lot through ours and haven't had any issues. *edit - after around 5 years one of the older style heating...

Go withe the GFP, 63TH model. We use the heat assist every time right around 110 degrees, it really helps make it come out looking perfect and the little boost of temps I personally believe helps with adhesion. We've ran thousands of rolls through ours and after only a little training anyone in...

You could probably use a setting in the layer options to make it not printable. But, then you wouldn't be able to print it out for reference either.

I don't like the alumagraphics material personally, but it might be the correct choice for something like this. I would also think about 3M 480mc. The extreme depths combined with a porous material will not have good long term adhesion with anything.

Also, FWIW, no matter which you choose, GET THE EXTENDED WARRANTY and keep it active as long as possible. Both companies have OUTSTANDING tech support as long as the printer is warranted, but as soon as it is out of warranty both really fall off on response time and it gets expensive quick.

We primarily do wraps and wall/window murals with our Epsons. We primarily print on 3M self-adhesive vinyls.

Might be the settings, there are a lot of different options in our Onyx rip for printing "layered" inks. Are you doing it as 1 head printing color and the 2nd head printing white? Maybe try changing the pass settings? It doesn't look like it's putting out enough ink. Are both "images" set to...

It probably depends on what all materials you're looking at printing on. I know when we had a latex it was able to print on some wallpapers that eco-solvents could not, but we never printed on those materials. If you're looking to do large runs of panels that have to be color consistent for...

Shackleton is kind of close. I agree, probably a proprietary font.

Yeah, a photo or two would show a LOT.

I'm not sure on your entire range of products, but if you're doing vehicle graphics things aren't flat and the UV doesn't stretch as well as traditional inks. I researched a lot of printers and we ended up purchasing an Epson 60600 when we were able to pick any we wanted (64"). And in the...

Finally thinking about wrapping my old canoe. Was kinda tricky to figure out a template, but it had a great straight centerline to measure from.

I suggest looking into the Epson 60600. I've ran Mimaki and Roland also and would not go back. Do not recommend Latex either after our experiences. I do not recommend UV unless it is a flatbed either.

I bought a few boxes of cheap Harbor Freight gloves a couple weeks ago and use one every time I pump gas, I put about a half box in each car, and I think the gloves cost about $.10 each or probably less. Cheap insurance to put one on when you get out and discard it before getting back in.

Piece of phototex and a grease pencil. Stick it on the panel and trace the outline/shape. Measure a vertical distance and a horizontal distance and draw that on there also clearly. Put the phototex back on its backer and head back to the shop. Stick the phototex on a flat wall and stand back and...

There are tint colors also that are thanslucent, but they'd achieve a similar effect on a fade.