Search results

Something is probably blowing the black/cyan fuse on power up. Usually it's a damaged or dirty head cable. Make sure no ink splatter got on the cable leads and also make sure the leads aren't popping off the plastic backer. If they don't look perfect, replace them. Any time a head doesn't fire...

When you swapped the cables between print heads, did the magenta/yellow still fire?

Check your cut strip and make sure it doesn't have a groove cut into it.

Sounds like a damper issue. If they are older than 1 year old, I'd replace them.

The general rule with solvent printers is, as hot as possible without the media buckling. For me that tends to be mid 30C for pre and platen heat and then crank the dryer all the way up to 50C as it won't buckle the media and helps it dry faster. Your situation may be different depending on...

Check the print head cable and make sure there is no ink splatter or damage to the cable. I would also re-install them just to make sure they are straight and not loose. Not German but I do have a Dutch last name if that counts!

It's pay for a period of time if you advertise directly. The other more random ads are from an ad service that most likely pays per click.

They go into the hole. Wet them down with cleaning solution and it will slide in easier.

This has been true up until the most recent models. Roland's TruVis series actually uses Ricoh heads where the Mimaki CJV150 still uses the Epson heads. The Mimaki will be faster and higher quality for that reason. The newer machines have more bells and whistles which complicate things more...

This is the black head for the Falcon Jr only. New and in the original manufacturer's box. Call 303-733-6671 to order!

If you go to the Mutoh website, click on the support menu and there will be an option for PublicFTP. The firmware is in the printer information folder. You just need to find your machine model and open the folder. I'd post a link but it's session locked.

When it comes to signs and stickers, CMYK does the trick 99% of the time. The orange widens the gamut a little bit but in my opinion, most people can't even tell the difference! To get the full benefit of the orange you would want to make a custom profile as well and even then it really doesn't...

It's probably cross contamination. Check your nozzle test to see if the cyan has some yellow getting into it. At the end of the day it's usually a weak damper, bad cap top, or partially clogged pump/waste tubes.

Check out RolandDGA.com. They have a web store that sells them I believe.

Take the left side cover off and it will expose the encoder disc. It's a clear plastic disc that is straddled by a sensor. If that disc gets dirty, the sensor will skip that area of the disc and cause the media to skip forward like that. The printer doesn't know so it continues printing like...

That's a common issue with the Sp300s. The obvious first thing to look at is that the pinch rollers are actually in the proper position. If they are and it still gives you that error, you need to change the cut tool trailing cable. I have them here if you need it.

Sold just in case anyone sees this. Thanks!

There is a special tool you can get from Mutoh that's basically a feeler gauge with 2 thicknesses. You move the carriage over it and it should clear the lower thickness but not the higher one. If you can get a tech manual, it describes it in section 7.9.

Here is a link to the damper for your machine on our website. They are located on top of the print heads behind the carriage cover. The o-rings are located between the damper connection to the ink line.

Time to change the dampers and o-rings. Check your cartridges to make sure they have ink in them as well. Sometimes it won't flag the machine and will be empty and pull back on the system.