Search results

You need a merchant membership to sell on here.

If it's as far down as it can go you should be good. What usually happens is you can see clearly that one side is higher than the other. If that's the case it needs to be corrected so that it's parallel with the platen. If I remember off the top of my head correctly, the head gap is 2mm in low...

That's how it works here in Colorado too. Just make sure you keep a current copy of their license on file or else when you get audited they won't accept an expired one.

I have a customer who bought a JFX200 and ended up not using as much as he thought. He now leases it out to another company in town. So this is a real concern but by the sounds of it, FatCat does a decent amount of work compared to the customer I mentioned.

Here's a link!

I usually just check for continuity but there have definitely been times where it tested good but was still bad. This is a good suggestion!

I'd do that first as they are probably not sealing well enough to keep the air out.

You'll have to start over but make sure your computer isn't going to sleep during the print as that is the usual cause.

Judging by the amount of roll stock you seem to use, I'm not sure if a flat bed will help with speeding up your workflow. That is unless you just do a ton more coro and MDO than anything else. I agree with Christian above. Hybrids tend to introduce more problems than they solve.

I agree with above. Also make sure the maintenance doors are shut. They are finicky and can look closed when they aren't!

Check the gap between the head and the platen. It's very common when people put the head back in that the left side is slightly higher up than the right which causes the head to not seal with the cap top. If that's the case, you just need to go back in and wiggle the head until it drops down...

If you know ink is flowing through the maintenance station and it still doesn't fire, the head fuse blew on the main board. Depending on how old your machine is, it's either soldered on or, hopefully, it's the newer style board with the socketed fuse. I have them available here if you need one...

It means the printer isn't receiving a reading from the encoder. Make sure the sensor is plugged in all the way. Then I would run the encoder setup and calibration in service mode. If something is really wrong, one or both of those will error out. If not, it might fix the issue. The manual says...

Were the fuses you tested about the size of a few grains of rice with a white center and silver or gold metal caps on each end? It's not the glass type fuses people are normally used to. When the heads don't fire it's either because there is no ink, the heads are fried, or the fuses are blown...

Give me a half coke, half diet coke. I'm trying to watch my figure.

Ok good! I couldn't believe what I was reading!

Do HPs not have an ink end sensor?

They call it Cleaning Solution 200 for Solvent. Part number SPC-0369.

Mimaki calls it a nozzle wash. It will be in the maintenance menu. It will move the head out from the capping station, prompt you to clean the wiper and cap top, then prompt you to fill liquid (cleaning solution), and then park the head on the cap top full of solution. I usually set it for at...

Give it a go. It sounds like ink has been moving through the head so nothing should be clogged. That being said, I'm willing to bet a lot of nozzles will be clogged to begin with. If that's the case, run a hard cleaning and see if that helps but you might need to do a head soak to get it going...