Search results

I have the 4 color JV33-130 Printer. Black, Cyan and Yellow are fine. My magenta is all kinds of messed up. I have done 2 head soaks, countless nozzle washes and a Discharge. I don't know what else to do. Any advise? I tried to attach a photo but it wont load for some reason. It just look slike...

I just fixed it. I decided to take the covers off the 2 sensors. I found a metal piece loose in BOTH sensors. I calle dtech support and they emailed a part diagram and go tthem back on correctly. I guess the air from the fan cleaning blew them out of place.. Ill have to turn it down a little...

I took my heater deck off this morning to clean my fans. When I got everything back together, I started it up and I got a "close a cover" Thinking that there was only 2 cover sensors I started playing with them. I juggled and moved them trying to get it to read. Nothing. I started looking on...

It can be set up to read the lower right or the bottom 2 and maybe 3? IDK It can all be just be setup differently. I put mine on TP1 after my 400mm adjustment and if im not cutting a print job I just hit enter and its ready to roll the material.

If your media is being cut off the printer strait, loaded strait and all 4 registration marks are being read, I would say you might wanna try the 400mm square adjustment. It is in my mimaki book on page 3.17 - 3.22. If that doesn't help try the adjustments on page 3.36 - 3.49 (I think).. It...

I would use 3M 7725 series transparent EC film.

I use the back of elecra cut film. I separate the vinyl from the backing, spray it with adhesive and rub it out on a thick laminated wall calendar(so it does not cut in the strips), up my pressure and its done.

That's a lot of profiles lol. I have like 4 I don't really understand by "makes no sense" You obviously want a profile to match your material, high resolution and make sure the "other conditions" fit your criteria for the material. The maker really doesn't matter in my experience.

Mosh, I was always told to let printed material dry for 10 - 12 hours for a "curing" process. Maybe its just Mimaki ink? Like, if it don't cure good enough, it will be peeling off its substrate after a month or 2..

We could just ask OldPaint how he did it long ago..

Heard that sooo many times and it still makes me laugh!

Have you tried it on some other material? Looks smeared to me(like the sheeting has got a wave).. IDK I have never seen that..

I wish I could hug you! lol This has really blown my mind. Everything you said happened! He originally sent in an EPS file from the original. He thought I had changed the first sample! lol (Yes, I have sent 2) I reckon I am going to find a new book and see if I can upgrade my COREL PANTONE...

:Big Laugh

Avery was descent back then. Obviously you missed the part about your title being the abomination. Not that you used Avery 12 years ago... Have you been reading that long? hehehehehehehehehehehe Son, I was die-cutting letters back when you were picking out ED medicine LOL

I never got a "grain" look from my directional being off. It made a blur, I guess? I ordered some cheap ORACAL sheeting(non reflective) and it printed grainy as heck. I put in another series, and it was fine. 2 feet away, it looked perfect. Up close it was grainy.

LOL They were the numbers the guy gave him. He loves that color combination, I reckon

your thread title is an abomination

Sounds like your material

It was the coated series. This book is old, and I did mention they could fade, but they are matching my printouts.. The book I am using is actually a formula guide. (We used to only screen print up until a few months ago). But like I said, they match.. I just made him my own PANTONE chart...