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Have you changed the dampers?

The missing and deflected nozzles have nothing to do with his/her posted question and problem. You're correct though, missing and deflected nozzles will affect quality, but totally different from the wrong color being printed out of a channel.

Swap the dampers/lines on top of the head, do a few cleans, and do another nozzle check. Do the colors stay the same, or do they swap places? I don't see where you've done that. Triggerhappy is correct. It's either the wrong ink in the cart, or the dampers have been swapped. Easy enough to...

Sure. The JV33 is fine for sub. VD=variable dot. ND=Normal Dot. Variable prints just different dot sizes. Normal uses one size drop. With today's print speeds, I'm not sure why anyone uses ND anymore for dye sub. VD will give you better quality.

Don't jump the gun on the print head being shot. Likely not the case. Missing nozzles does not mean the head is shot. You can print for years depending on how many nozzles and how much banding you're willing to live with. You can cover up a good many nozzle drops with pass count increases, etc...

Does anyone know what type of heads they are Ricoh Gen4, Gen5, Kyocera...? And, where one can find aftermarket ones? Thanks in advance.

No. You're not being paranoid. That's part of the replacement process, so it certainly could be out of alignment if you take it out and put it back in. You'll have the same concern if you install a new head too. You can flush it in the printer. I just get paranoid about getting fluid on...

Yes, test print to make sure all nozzles are firing and there's no deflections.

Did you recently have a head strike/crash? Can you see any damage to the face plate? It's possible they're clogged from usage, but many times when there is a band of nozzles out in a line like that it is physical damage. If you're comfortable removing and reinstalling heads, I recommend taking...

What does your nozzle check look like? Post a pic before and after a normal clean.

Dang. I'm out of ideas that would be of any benefit. Hopefully someone else can chime in that knows more about that model. Good luck!

Sounds like a bad board to me. I'm not super familiar with that model, but all of the Mutoh/Mimaki/Rolands are similar enough they display similar issues and fixes. Anything crazy happen like power outage, breaker trip, bad storm? I've fried head board fuses just by touching a printer and having...

Is the head moving and it's just not firing? Is the printer getting the data? More details...

I agree with the last 2 statements. I would say it's electrical and I am too surprised the printer is printing at all. That thing is coated in ink! Get it cleaned up and do the data cable swaps in pairs as artbot said. Make sure the cables are completely seated in the head(s) and board. Make...

Hmm. That rules out the RIP then if the printer's PC is sending the test file and it's doing it. You have me stumped. If/when you get it figured out post for all of us! Good luck!

You're running the Wasatch version of the Agfa RIP or another one? I've had Wasatch do that and had to do a re-install.

"During a print how does the head get ink? From gravity?" The ink initially gets to the head via the pump (or syringe as you have done). The ink line from the cart to the head has a vacuum in it. If X number of picoliters are fired through the head, theoretically if the vacuum is maintained, X...

Where are you located? I don't see it on your profile.

The JV4 doesn't have those valves mentioned before. Straight from cart>lines>dampers>heads>cap>pump>waste tank. Make sure when you're doing a cleaning on those heads there is ink dripping into your waste tank. You may be able to pull ink from the bottom of the capping station, but the pumps...

Head life shouldn't be your concern if you're using a good ink, aren't getting head crashes/strikes, and are doing the correct PM. Print heads are going to die. That's just a fact, but you can minimize it. That said... The heads are all rated at X# of firings for their lifespan. Higher...