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Rubbing the edges with any smooth steel bar works great to get rid of any jaggies and leaves a nice curled over finish. We use a large screwdriver with a round shank. It's fast and there's no filings to sweep up.

Maybe rather than using a computer font you could take one of their pens and write out their name a couple dozen times on some clean white paper. Take the best one or the best elements of your preferred ones, scan 'em, clean 'em up, and you will have a truly custom script to offer them.

I've been forced to upgrade from Signlab 7 to the most current version because of a hardware issue. I've used quite a few different versions of Signlab, since I first bought Cadlink 1, back when it was a dos program in the early 80's. There always was a feature that when you pressed F2 it would...

I thought the picture in the middle was a guy trying to break into the Harley Shed, and the last pic was the knuckles of the guy who caught him.

That shed isn't even big enough to store my Harley in for the winter.

It was a while ago ( 15+ yrs) we bent some polycarbonate and acrylic using sand we heated in an oven. I think we laid some construction paper on the plastic then poured the hot sand on the area we needed curved and bent it around some 4" pipe.

Hey thanks, Castek. I even have some water in stock. :smile:

Is it okay to clean the encoder strip on my sp300 using the cleaning fluid or do I need to run into town for 99% isopropyl alcohol?

There is something about working on old trucks. Putting paint on 'em just feels good. Here is one I did a few years back.

Thanks, I think I'm gonna have to draw this one from scratch.

Anybody here recognize this typeface? the sample is a bit fuzzy. Thanks for looking.

That shouldn't be hard to digitize from the pictures you've got. Even a quick auto-trace and a bit of clean up shouldn't take more than the time to modify a font.

We do basically what Bob said. We use a heavy screwdriver instead of a brass bar, but the results are the same. Just run the shaft of the driver around the perimeter of the the sign on both sides using moderate pressure and it's good-to go.

I would charge my regular shop rate for all the tasks. When you are busy doing weeding and taping you are away from your easel. I'm home based and I would charge it out at at least $65 an hour, and I'd tell him there's a blade charge for cutting reflective.

Can't you export the file as an .ai from Corel. I'm still using ver12 and it does it.

I have a lot of different routers and die-grinders that I use. I used to blast 'em a lot and I still do some that way. I'm home based on a couple acres and I have a hillbilly blast booth and a big diesel compressor. The large school signs mount hip height in school yards so they need to be more...

Laserfred - Thanks, the oval insert in that sign is yellow cedar. It's finished with Cetol Marine Clear Topcoat. It's supposed to go overtop of regular cetol for the UV protection, but the client wanted the whiteness of the wood to show. It's been in the weather for 5 years now and some greyish...

I have been using Sikkens Cetol oil finish for 20 years without any issues. Lettering enamel sticks to it fine. They make a waterbased version and I'm trying it on a few small projects, but the oil based stuff is real good on cedar. Here are a few pics of the signs in my makeshift carving shop...

I think that's a pretty fair price also. It will get you started and if you can learn to letter a simple casual style it will have paid for itself many times over. Make yourself a mahlstick from a piece of half inch dowel with a 2" ball of masking tape wound up on the end. The best advice I ever...

Craig, I think with your brush skills you might want to hand-letter your business name window splash style and photograph that for your main page header. The font choice doesn't match your style or quality of work, in my opinion. I don't know if the orange is a necessary component to your image...