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I usually wrap in stretchwrap if it’s something I’m just protecting from scratches, that way it can be left on for install and it’s see through.

I use a Vanguard VK300D, Kyocera 10 print head configuration. The print quality is amazing, and it’s lighting fast compared to most of the other flatbeds I’ve seen, it will print a 60” x 120” print in 2-3 minutes(single color not using white) with good image quality. If speed isn’t an issue you...

Denco has a lot of that stuff, not sure if you have access to them. I get most of the vinyl tools I need from local suppliers, the rest comes from various places like yellowtools, window tint suppliers, amazon etc...

If you use a decent enough etch primer you probably don't have to sand it as long as it's cleaned well. I would do it right though, sand everything or at the very least use red scotchbrite, etch any spots that metal show through if it's already painted.

Vanguard all the way!! Make sure you get the Kyocera heads though...

Bron Tapes has a pretty good selection, might call them and explain what you need. I’ve found some pretty unique stuff there in the past.

Did you look on thebadwrap.com?

Good point…

That’s how they are here too (seattle area) and my company spends tens of thousands a month with them. I constantly have to call to get better pricing on things. I’m personally not a big fan and try to buy from smaller local vendors as much as possible. Some things they price reasonably but...

8519 or 8520 will work just fine.

I agree with JBurton. I’ve been printing on clear vinyl and applying to acrylic for years and it works great. Never once needed a hot laminator. Most any brand of clear vinyl will work, you’ll need to mirror the image and laminate with an opaque white film. Then apply subsurface to the acrylic...

We’ve all had a customer try and say something was crooked but this story is insane, luckily we didn’t hear about it on Dateline…

There is a workaround for sure. I recently quit a sign company and the IT guy got it to work for me on CD 21 and 22. Unfortunately I have no idea what he did and I don’t work there anymore. Sorry, that’s not much help, but it is possible!!

It may be your designer but I had the same issues for years crop cutting on a Roland (3 different machines had the same issue.) How many are you trying to cut in a batch, and is the cut offset the same on both sides of the machine?

That’s what I was afraid of, I know dye sub is a common way they’re done but I wasn’t sure if it was the only way. Definitely don’t want to print directly on the boards, that seems like a can of worms not worth opening lol. I have a roll to roll UV printer also but it doesn’t sound like that’s...

You can apply it to any decent cast print media. I have been mixing media and laminate brands for years with no issues. As long as you’re using quality materials you shouldn’t have any problems.

When I made decals like this on my Roland I would send the file with 2 cut lines in the exact same spot. One would just Kiss cut, the second would perf cut all the way through the paper. If I tried to cut them all the way through without the kiss cut first they always came out rough. Now I use...

I also use Oracal 3164HT for printing decals that are applied to ports pottys and it works pretty well. 3M IJ39 is another good option, I use it for walls that have been painted with low VOC paint and it does well.

We currently print a decent amount of skateboard grip tape and are trying to expand our business in that market. A large skateboard company reached out and asked if we can print heat transfer graphics for the bottom of the board. Do any of you know where I can source that media? I’ve used heat...

I agree with Z Signs, it’s super easy. Plus learning how to make your own will allow you to start making more complicated templates for things in the future. Transfer tape or paint mask make good templates.