Search results

Why not? Get an I1. You can easily build profiles in onyx for an HP Latex. Onyx's youtube channel is actually very helpful on this and can walk you thru everything.

Get the I1. Create your own profiles in Onyx with ink restrictions/linearization. Recalibrate the restrictions and run Onyx color checks regularly (at least once a month, once a week better, before any large job). Onyx's youtube channel actually has a lot of great videos that will walk you...

I have the same issue with the colex and .040. Even with a new bit it is often inconsistent and at the least we need to wipe paint flakes off the edges. I have tried tons of different combos of bits and settings.

Yeah pretty much. Only until it catches up with them though, then you and everyone else needs to rush.

the extra 6" also ensures the taped seam is wrapped up tight around the core with a couple layers of material so there will basically never be any tension trying to pull the taped pieces apart.

HP paid for a bs pr award. wgaf. back to work.

Just had this issue on my Colex. I ended up replacing the entire cable from the camera, thru the table, and into the computer. We switched from straight USB to a USB>ethernet>USB with converters near the camera and near the computer. This is a common issue with longer USB cables without...

I've gotten it from Fisher and Ultraflexx. You can dye sub transfer to it but I usually direct print on it on our Stitch.

I don't have a 570, but I have other HP Latexs. You shouldn't have to constantly change heads on the latex to get consistent colors. You should only need to calibrate on the Latex every time you do change a head. As long as all your heads are in warranty and firing well, running calibrations...

Since you are using onyx, I would recommend just creating the profiles thru onyx rather than a separate program. The I1 is compatible with onyx. The onyx videos should walk you thru the entire process.

These guys are right. You need to grab an I1 and learn about color management thru onyx. A good place to start would be their YouTube channel (onyxtv, i think). They have a lot of helpful training videos. To get those two printers to match you need to create new medias on the machines...

No, I don't use it much. Truthfully it's kind of a pain in the ass. The way it works with setting up medias in Onyx is annoying and not user friendly. It is not a simple printer to operate imo and I've been through a lot of printers. You're probably aware of its limitations with adhesive...

HP Latex 360, 1500, 3200- I use these for banners, adhesive vinyl, mesh, etc... R2000-Latex Flatbed for boards HP Stitch S1000-dye sub and direct fabric Digitech Retrojet-direct fabric (mainly flags for amazing bleed through) Mutoh VJ1638-barely use-most paper and small jobs Scitex 500, 700 (for...

I heard the 1650 did not truly solve the wrap vinyl problems of the 1640 (much less of a problem but still a problem sometimes). I cannot confirm, but maybe look into that first. I'm sure others on here could advise better. I also heard the 700 and 800 are hot garbage so idk.

Cast vinyl is probably your best option, but the seam will likely be a fail point down the road. I would do it that way and just inform the customer of the potential issues and let them know you can't guarantee it.

Agree about the look but 8508 is a cast lam. Just FYI :)

You might want to do a vinyl adhesion test on the painted drywall before printing.

Most boards are 48x96. The majority of board orders we get are 24" x something (24x18, 24x36, 24x24, 24x48, 48x48, etc..) To maximize usage, most full sheets are printed edge to edge, which leaves no room for the automatically added (onyx) registration marks for our Colex table. Apart from...

Ask for Hoddy Peck.

If it's possible I would cut this on colored cast translucent cut vinyl, rather than printing. Based on your description of the design, it sounds like it might be possible, but maybe not. When we have to print on translucent (we also have HP Latexs), I have had years of success with Arlon 6500...