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I agree it's probably one or both the encoder strip being dirty or damaged and/or worn out pinch rollers.

Exactly. Although a lot of the time they are still good or very close once you reinstall the head.

Sounds more like a worn out cap top to me. It's probably just not sealing up well anymore so cleanings won't do anything.

I've always just used a gloss vinyl profile and it seems to work. The 3m ones seem to work the best.

Unfortunately it's probably bad news. Best case scenario is the cable between the servo board and main board has somehow became disconnected. Worst case is the servo board and/or main board are failing. You're probably going to want to get a tech.

Go into the menus and scroll all the way to the bottom. If you have menus that have the # symbol in front of them, you're in service mode. Also, the fact that it's printing the 2 colors along with the white head indicates that you probably are in service mode as well.

It won't hurt anything. It's worth a shot.

It's possible for sure. Mutoh cards are notoriously finicky. If you contact your ink supplier they should be able to put in a warranty request and Mutoh will send you a new card.

Sounds like you might need the cap top. The cap top has to seal with the head so the pump can pull ink down. If you ran a fill up and ink didn't flow into the head, the cap probably isn't sealing.

Sub tank hi means the machine was expecting the hi sensor to flag but it times out. This usually means either the sensor is malfunctioning, the flag that flags is has been knocked out of place, or ink isn't flowing into the tank. Have you taken a look at the sub tanks yet?

If you just installed a new head you need to run all of the alignments in service mode. If the print direction in your images is left and right, your vertical alignment is off which is a physical adjustment of the head position.

Even two brand new printers one serial number apart will have slightly different results. Calibrating the printers to print with similar results requires custom profiling.

That's the way of these machines! One little bit of air getting in throws it all off. Glad to hear it was something simple!

Looks like the official spec is 16 mil including the liner. But you might be able to get it to work.

It sounds like it's possible the cap top is the issue. You might be getting inconsistent suction from the current one which is why it seems to be coming and going. If the cap top doesn't do it, I have been seeing ink flow issues on these older models. I usually just change out the ink lines and...

When you did the damper swap to see if yellow would print in another channel, did the color you swapped it with also not print in the yellow channels? When you flush the yellow channels, did you see cleaning solution come out of any other of the channels other than yellow?

I've used 70% alcohol for years but a another tech on here suggested I only use 90% as the 70% has too much water which can cause issues. I think you'd be ok with either but if you can get 90% use that.

I agree that there is a possibility the quality is still good enough he might be able to get by. I have some customers who won't accept the smallest defect in a print and others who will print with 50% of nozzles missing. Everyone has a point where they won't sell it anymore. These heads are...

Bad encoder strips can do some weird things that don't seem to make sense so it's worth a shot for sure. In my experience that magenta streak is usually caused by an electrical issue though. Could be bad head cables, trailing cables or a bad head. Rarely it's a damaged main board but that's a...

That's a pretty good amount of deflection in the black. I don't usually see heads recover from that very often. You can try doing some head soaks and as a last resort you could flush the head manually but that can also damage the head internally. It's worth a shot if you're prepared to get a new...