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if its hollow, and has two faces, why do they call it a "Back-to-back" sign... when its simply an ("aka") double-faced pylon sign that has no backs whatsoever?

posted this in another similiar thread. figured i'd copy here as well.

i have the same problem when I exceed ~4ft of print&cuts. I believe it is the drag of the material going through the plotter that works its way out of alignment as you progress through batches of cuts. I've done longer batches by only exporting half of the page, flipping the sheet and...

new to summa tangential plotters, as we recently replaced our mimaki cg130's. Uncertain if it applies to cutting via printed registration marks, but for general plotting, I believe calibrating your length tracking may be the solution. ...for print&cut, reducing drag on the material or slowing...

i feel like your time would be better served at farmer's markets or starving artist events, than doing work on fbmarketplace where all the scammers&lowballers lurk. Heck, even pinterest&etsy are flooded with competition but people still make a living on those platforms. It may be different...

installing your own heads will always save you $$$. replacing a manifold instead of the entire printhead, will also save you $$$ however, doing either without feeling comfortable with the process could potentially cost you double/triple what a service tech doing it for you will be. ...if not...

die hard omega 2 user here, for outputting vinyl to plotters, but have been using Adobe for design as of the late 90's. Anything worth making the jump to Omega8, at nearly three grand, or am I correct to not be excited about simply spending money on features I will most likely never use?

i have a mimaki jv3-160sp I would gladly donate to a nonprofit if I can deduct ~$3k from my taxes. non-profit doesn't mean no-expenses. Sales tax for certain sales is waived for transactions relating to the charity's “charitable mission.” ...so they're never truly paying "retail" anyways...

I wonder if women ever complained about how many cocks required manipulation in the morning.

big fan of tape & silicone, BUT tape won't stick to silicone and thin tape won't allow silicone to set thick enough to be of any use anyways. +1 tape only

we stud weld and hand-tap studs into 1/4" aluminum all the time. however, the fact that they are already painted leads me to think the latter would be the best option of the two. bonus points for the suggestion to simply mount to a panel and then mount that panel to the brick. less fuss at...

it is also possible to do a zero overlap tile line if you just tape your tiles together: cut once through both, and tape the seam together before applying both at once. overlap with a clear laminate strip to help keep the seam from opening-up/shrinking-back over time.

A "sharp" putty knife gets you behind the letter, and you can slice around the perimeter of the letter as you jam it/pry it to feel if there's a stud or not. If its just tape&adhesive, you can just grab the letter at twist it off the surface after you've cut through the perimeter of adhesion...

yeah, 3 layers is a lot but its doable if you use cast overlam that won't shrink & pull at the bottom layers. Not my standard practice, as it adds 50% more cost to your materials, but I've done it plenty of times while trying to print onto exotic materials that simply don't want to accept ink...

anywhere between $7k to $7mil. find them here

client realized they screwed up by providing low-res images & saying "GO" you screwed up by showing that you care. client is now trying to cover their arse by documenting distaste in an email, in hopes you back-off additional charges or they simply refuse to pay entirely because the "customer is...

swapped quite a few dx4 printheads over the course of a decade running my mimaki jv3. DIY adds up, would have been over $20k, plus time waiting for tech scheduling, to replace ~$7k worth of printheads.

unlaminated ij35 for a wall mural? bold move, cotton.

glad you found a fix! i would have suggested, as a last resort, to simply laminate the vinyl with a clear printable overlam, and let your print sink its teeth into that layer.

soak & scrape then cover with a larger decal OR skip the soak&scrape, just make a dibond panel with graphic that covers the whole thing. Labor for a crappy door restoration that is too cheap for paint, is WAY more expensive than a composite panel.