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SP300 and SP540 profiles are one and the same. You're best bet is to suck it up and learn how to create your own profiles, or pay someone to do it for you.
I cannot recommend highly enough creating your own profiles for YOUR shop because each will have unique conditions..even when using the same printer and materials. Once you do, you'll wonder why you didn't do so before and then you're not locked into any specific printer/ink/media combo either!
Paint is different than ink. Paint is usually quite opaque, but ink is quite not opaque...hence the need to mix in the other colors to ensure that the black in the file comes out looking like black when printed.
I'd recommend NOT using 100% of each channel as it will simply be too thick, may actually puddle up and run off the media...plus it will take a bit longer to dry thoroughly! I use something more like C25 M25 Y25 K100 for a nice Rich Black.
The 3651 is manufactured in a "clean room" and extra precautions are taken to ensure it is clean for printing. It also has a grey adhesive (for hiding of images it is applied over) and it may have a slightly different chemical composition.
We recently wrestled with this a bit and ended up creating a double-strike/overprint media profile. We also printed on Orajet 3850 translucent. I once did a small print for a backlit on 3651 or 3165 and it did NOT turn out good...you really need to use a true translucent material...expensive I...
This is typically indicative of the encoder strip being dirty (both the skewed print and the service code). This is the clear strip (about 1" wide) that runs lengthwise parallel to the print head travel. GENTLY clean it with IPA and a swab or similar.
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