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You probably won't find a true permanent chip for a Mimaki. You're best bet is to get non permanent chips from a 3rd party ink supplier but if you don't buy your ink from them, a lot of them tend to get grumpy with you because they want to sell ink, not chips.

Due to many factors, printers will drift in color over time. There's a process called, "linearization," that allows you to bring it back it's original state but that requires a spectrophotometer. I've even seen two of the exact same model printer, in the same room, installed on the same day...

Agreed with Neil above. Also, this is a scenario I've seen a thousand times. Your cap top and/or pump might have been already failing but working enough to keep ink inside the head. Then when you moved the printer, air got into the system, which is normal, but the failing cap top/pump can't...

It's natural for the ink to recede back to the cartridges but the dampers are supposed to prevent it from happening. So usually it means the damper is bad, the o-ring seal between the damper and ink line is bad, or there is an air leak somewhere else in the system. So make sure you change the...

If you're running an older Mutoh ValueJet or any other DX5 based printer like the Mimaki JV33 and CJV30, we've got a rare sale going on for these heads at $1325. That includes a full set of dampers and free ground shipping. These heads are genuine Mutoh DX5 print heads straight from Mutoh...

That's how we did it in the shop I worked in. In certain cases someone just wanted a phone number on their door for cheap so we just threw on some calendared vinyl.

We only paid $100 for the rubber but that was for a very entry level Royal Sovereign laminator. I assume $2100 is for the entire roller for you. We didn't buy the rubber anywhere special. It was straight from the manufacturer.

If you're looking for board repair, check out https://www.inkjetperformance.com/wide-format-printer-board-pcb-repair-service/

Yeah they only sent the rubber outside part and we had to slide it on the metal cylinder.

Encoder issues tend to print and have a stair step pattern rather than not printing at all. If you're not seeing print issues in the other colors, I would say no.

My best guess would be that maybe some of the art files have an effect that is conflicting with the sport color? Sometimes transparencies will make spot colors do weird things. Other than that I guess it could be a small pressure issue causing the ink to no start printing right away sometimes...

Does it ever happen on other white prints or just when trying to put it behind the mark?

It's a weird one because it doesn't seem to be an ink flow issue. My first gut feeling was maybe a file issue.

Check the CR board. I can't remember if there is one on there for your machine but most of the DX7 based printers do. The CR board is the board the head cables and trailing cables plug into. Also, take a good look at the ink lines throughout the machine. Make sure there aren't any large air...

Yeah I'd get up to room temp but if it still doesn't print, make sure your're checking the tiny ceramic fuses on the main and CR board. They are about the size of a few grains of rice and are white with silver or bronze caps on each end. They aren't the glass tube ones most people are familiar with.

So you're saying putting everything I've got into $GME isn't a good idea? :D

It could be a pressure issue. I'd check the positive and negative pressure and adjust if needed. Sometimes it can be within range but fluctuate wildly which can be a sign that there's an air leak even if it's within range. Have you received any sub tank or ink flow errors recently?

No problem! We're a Mutoh dealer so I have access to all of the manuals. I actually just took a second look and it says I1600 right on the drawing :doh:

Since it's a brand new printer I can't be 100% sure but the head in the mechanical drawing looks exactly like an Epson I1600. Here's the spec sheet for that head. According to that sheet the minimum drop size for solvent inks is 3.8pl.

Each one of those green areas actually has 2 channels so one head is 4 channels. So the 1641 would have one head and the 1642 would have 2. Out of all the major manufacturers, Mutoh is the most closely tied to Epson. Mutoh actually made the Epson GS6000 before Epson started making their own...