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Sooooo....it was designed to require 20 pushes of the button to finally respond? Got it.

yeah, HARD pass.

Does anyone with a 560 or 570 have this issue: I am noticing more and more, when the printer goes into sleep mode and I wake it again, whether it be next morning or later in the day if it's gone sleep, that the touchpad becomes more and more non-receptive. There are times when I wake it, go to...

Use Glass Adhere, and if they save the liner, they can peel off and reuse next year. I just love this stuff for removable, reusable window graphics.

Print on clear SC, back with white vinyl. Also I think Glass Adhere comes in clear, which is a great product.

Are you printing the whole roll at once? Why not roll off what you need, lay on the table and straight-edge cut off 10"?

Not phallic at all .... :big laugh:

WOW....LOL. Gino gave a legitimate, direct, good advice answer. What is all this nonsense about?

Here's a toughy....I KNOW I have this one somewhere but can't ID it. This is all I have to go by. I think the T is supposed to have a bottom serif but it may be broke off.

Maybe try and use IJ35 instead of 35c if you want to use that type of vinyl.....although they are pretty similar, and 3M labels it as permanent adhesive. Maybe they need to rethink that designation. Really is best to use vinyls that are actual wall vinyls though.

I don't get the point of this....you get 2 seams then; the seam of 2 boards, then another vinyl seam 2" from that seam. You should be fine with the material butted up together as the only seam, provided you have a way to keep them from separating.

WOW I can't believe no one else experiences the smell, mainly 210 Gloss and Matte, and several intermediate colored vinyls. I've posted on here before about it. We refer to it as "hot dog-sh!t", as it smells like when you step on a lawn cigar on a hot summer day. It's bad out of the box, and...

This can happen whether it's cal or cast. Oracal seems to have changed many things, including the adhesive (horrible smelling - we've had to stop using their 210 series laminates and several vinyls). I don't know what happened to them but really close to done with all of their materials. Sucks...

Prep the wall with isopropyl alcohol and a non-paper, lint-free cloth. It will tack up the paint and vinyl will stick much better.

Correct, it is more than 1/16", but I don't get your point....no one mentioned 2mm. And yes, 1/16" is .0625", but since they don't MAKE a .0625" thick styrene, it would be .060 styrene.

Either the above mentioned flexface in a frame, or simply apply vinyl to the wall as a mural, using a concrete vinyl or what I've used before, a very high tack vinyl like Arlon DPF8000. You'll see the texture of the wall somewhat, but seams will not show and you only have one layer to contend...

He said it's 1/16" thick and you all are saying it's .030? or .040? MMMM....no, it would be .060 if it's 1/16" thick. Even grabbing a calculator would tell you that.

It just looks like the outline for cutting was printed, so it's not an actual contour line. Double check you have all contours as actual contours. You don't say what rip or software you're using....with Flexi, it doesn't matter the color, as long is it is a converted contour line.

Did you try searching Google? I know you're "Possibly" asking for a recommendation, but you know....some people don't start with the obvious solutions.....

Not gonna engage in political banter, but I can't wait for these signs to disappear. Although all the bumper stickers on cars will remain for a year or 2. At least we can identify the Commiefornia transplants with them.