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They are also to recirculate the white ink, and pretty common to see 4-color setups on these. Very capable and quick in dual CMYK mode. Moreso if you have a CJV/JV300 with the dual heads.

Check to make sure the cap is oriented properly and sitting level. The printhead carriage will bump the capping station during normal operation, but it shouldn't be touching anything but the bump stops on the right-hand side. It shouldn't be bumping the cap itself. They are a bit fiddly to get...

Xante is just a $5k printer with 6-10x the price tag when it comes to their flatbeds.

This is used when white ink is in the system to keep it mixed.

The UJF7151 has a silver ink, and you can partially cure clear or colored ink to make it tacky for foiling. Not primer though. Demo video here: Only took a few seconds of searching. Should check out the Mimaki application guides, all sorts of stuff they cover.

You'd need a hot melt UV ink, nothing Mimaki offers. Primer is just an adhesion promoter for inks.

What kind of foil? Like aluminum?

Man of many talents..

Do some dishwasher testing, interesting to see durability.

Can do it on a flatbed or a printer with rollers designed to work around exposed adhesive. Or, Mimaki is launching their stupidly expensive UJV300DTF printer...

The reason it is on the left side is because the printer only prints unidirectionally. Check the underside of the ink carriage and make sure old ink hasn't built up around the heads.

They also claimed their DTF printers used the latest technology and are competitively priced. Mimaki claims a lot of dumb things. It is easier to work on than most vendors, but all the more reason to never buy a new one in my book.

They have a utility for the Cjv150/300 but it doesn't usually work and tells people to contact their dealer.

If the wheels are still good and you have a steep hill with smooth pavement...

Not a crazy hard process, recommend getting a couple bottles of flush as well as the clear. Make sure the bottles you have for the existing colors are 50% or more full in actuality as well as on the chips. If sticking with LUS-170, makes it even easier. Can run you through it sometime if needed.

Could be ink valve going out causing the head to starve or might be lacking vacuum (which helps load ink quicker).

Not uncommon for motors to be pulling constant amperage when on to maintain position or braking. .45A at 24V is ~11W, or ~21W at 48V. Not a huge draw for these motors, and to be expected.

Shipping on the UK is going to be nightmarish! I miss messing with scammers before zelle and cashapp. Would send them $2 Western Union and tell them the wrong passcode again and again.

No price, No Location, Company/Spam Account, Wrong Forum Section... Hell, even the picture of the printer looks fake or doctored. Made the mistake of buying from these guys in the past, dodgy at best. Seems they're just getting sketchier and sketchier. Not to mention their obscene pricing.

Manually filling the dampers might help. Tape the ink valves with some masking tape and use a syringe to gently pull ink through the damper port to evacuate all the air. Still going to be a bit of air, but tends to be under 1/3 of the damper level.