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on my CJV 30 I place some white squares out of scrap vinyl around the registration marks, it always works. It is not necessary for other neon colours. On reflective, I simply place some etch glass vinyl above registration marks.

I agree, but it's the only choice that I have when I am in this situation. I don't have acrobat pro to try transparency flattening and print files usually come too late to ask the customer to provide modified ones. I export without compression to limit loss of quality.

hello, it happens to me the same with my CJV30 and Rasterlink for years. Of course, it happens more at the end of a print than at the beginning :frustrated:. I have this problem only with customer-provided PDF files that includes transparency. When it happens, I export to jpg and reprint. :banghead:

After having tried a lot of tools (Xacto knife, tweezers...) I weed everything except flex/flock with the 3M Air Release tool but it is so expensive (and hard to find at supplier here in Europe)! For flex/flock I use this kind:

maybe too much tension/pressure when applying the tape? Are you applying the tape manually or with a laminator?

same behavior here: since I installed a LED lighting, the cut is much more precise and repeatable as before.

Pat: what's the font name on the picture with 3 logo variants?

Hello, I had the problem when printing onto Oralite 5300 (not described as printable vinyl but is OK with my Mimaki). It only appears on the first 2 meters of my 50m roll then this problem disappears. I think that the surface of the vinyl is getting altered by time and air. I don't know if it...

hello very nice result. Could you please name the fonts you used? Thanks in advance.

B or not B, you will need A anyways... even if you buy from someone who is licensed to sell a brand/logo decal, this does not mean that you are automatically allowed to sell the product with that brand/logo.

DPF8000 shrinks a lot and differently depending on heat and ink coverage. That's the reason why you don't get the same panel size, it's due to the vinyl, not your printer settings.

the best you can do to thank everyone is to tell what was wrong and how you solved it :wink:

In finecut, you should select BOTH cut layer AND register rmark layer. Have you done this? Or did you only select the cut layer?

I did not see in your posts, how much far away is the cut from where it should be?

I think your worker took his time but I don't see the amount of time he needed too much. Next time: look at how he does and tell/show him how he could go faster, much more appreciated and understood by the worker than just telling him that he is too slow.

nice! how did you do with the power supply? Do you take it from the printer itself? or is it connected to the wall plug? When you need to switch it OFF, did you place a switch button somewhere or simply disconnect from the wall plug?

thanks a lot, very helpful!

the last time I met my mimaki Tech, he told me this (valve can be manually openend) so I think it should not be risky but I did not ask him how.

I've been told that the valves on the mimakis can also be opened without going into the service menu, by doing something manually behind the cartdriges (then the printer does not not to be powered on). Do you know how?

copy both files in the hot folder, do not open them with Rasterlink. If files are available in the hot folder, Rasterlink manages itself to build one (and only one) print&cut job in your job list