Brand New HP Latex 335 wont turn on

[Steenland]

You've complied with HP's specs. It's a new installation, so now it's up to HP and your supplier to resolve the problem. Unfortunately that probably means waiting till Tuesday, but I would email and/or call your supplier now to let them know that you need to be their top priority.

 

[amw]

You've complied with HP's specs. It's a new installation, so now it's up to HP and your supplier to resolve the problem. Unfortunately that probably means waiting till Tuesday, but I would email and/or call your supplier now to let them know that you need to be their top priority.

Do you know if i need anything to show them from my electrician or pictures of the voltage, etc? I hate hearing that i have to wait however I feel a little better hearing that its someone else issue now.
Is it very common for these to come new with issues?
Any idea what their procedure might be to get this figured out?
This really sucks!

 

[Steenland]

Do you know if i need anything to show them from my electrician or pictures of the voltage, etc?

Probably depends on your supplier. I purchased a Latex 365 in May through Grimco and had to send them photos of the multimeter with the voltage readout for each outlet before they would proceed with the (virtual) installation.

Other than the voltage issue, I had zero problems getting mine up and running. I've been running HP wide formats for over 22 years and they have been extremely reliable. I had one major issue with a Designjet Z6100 that I was able to repair myself using the service manual, which I found online.

 

[amw]

Probably depends on your supplier. I purchased a Latex 365 in May through Grimco and had to send them photos of the multimeter with the voltage readout for each outlet before they would proceed with the (virtual) installation.

Other than the voltage issue, I had zero problems getting mine up and running. I've been running HP wide formats for over 22 years and they have been extremely reliable. I had one major issue with a Designjet Z6100 that I was able to repair myself using the service manual, which I found online.

It is Grimco as well.
The fact that 1 cgfi breaker is a 20 amp (for the curing 16amp max) and the other is a 15 amp cgfi for the printer cord which says it only draws 3amps max shouldn't be an issue right?
Grimco has been ok so far, however we had the printer for 3 days before we got the ink because they "forgot it" or somehow it wasn't on the invoice. My copy clearly showed it.

Really wish this all happened yesterday so I would have been able to call someone! Pretty much how our luck goes lately.
Glad to hear they have been reliable, hopefully this will be for us once its running. We bought our roland new over 13 years ago, never needed anything except normal maintenance parts.

 

[balstestrat]

If curing is tripping the breaker with both cables it's most likely a bad power supply in there.

 

[amw]

Update: Contacted HP and they are sending parts and a Tech out. They said they consider it DOA. Mentioned a power supply, wiring harness, and some boards being shipped to us. I would think they would be coming in a day or two at most.

Of course our luck it would arrive dead.
Really appreciate everyone trying to help!

 

[d fleming]

Update: Contacted HP and they are sending parts and a Tech out. They said they consider it DOA. Mentioned a power supply, wiring harness, and some boards being shipped to us. I would think they would be coming in a day or two at most.

Of course our luck it would arrive dead.
Really appreciate everyone trying to help!

And what are they going to do about the expense to you to get past their not our fault bs? I would demand an entirely new machine or come get this pos out of my shop and stop payment if possible.

 

[amw]

And what are they going to do about the expense to you to get past their not our fault bs? I would demand an entirely new machine or come get this pos out of my shop and stop payment if possible.

Update:
I think that is were we are at or just take it back and i will buy something else. The techs (2) spent 4.5 hours and replaced some parts. They insist that it is the houses electrical wiring. 3 electricians from 2 different company's all say its is wired right and there is nothing wrong on my side. We paid 2/3's upfront and that was 5 weeks ago. Hopefully this is not going to be a nightmare.
Yet they could power the printer on using either outlet. Its only when the printer has both cords plugged in that it trips the breaker. They tried the power supply, curing power, and looked at wires. Found a few that were pinched but insist that wast an issue.

 

[d fleming]

At 456 lbs it's too big to take somewhere else and plug in to prove them wrong and a damn shame that is what it most likely would take to make them do right.

 

[balstestrat]

At 456 lbs it's too big to take somewhere else and plug in to prove them wrong and a damn shame that is what it most likely would take to make them do right.

Nah we transport them on wheels in a van all the time. Very easy to transport.

 

[d fleming]

If transport is an option I would think taking it to one of their customers close by where a machine is running and plugging it in there would be the acid test. If it fails I would make them come all the way across the table to make me happy.

 

[netsol]

AMW be firm with them, i knew that was BS when they made you do that elaborate dance over 5 v.
a company as large as grimco can pressure the manufacturer to provide them a roll of HP branded tape to do their own repacks

that whole story didn't hold water from the beginning (their's not yours)

 

[netsol]

AMW
not that google is expert in anything besides picking your pocket for fees but

Nominal voltage is the voltage that the line is designed for; however, in the real-world, the tolerance for voltage fluctuations is −5% to +5%. This leads to an actual voltage range of anywhere from 114V to 126V from your outlet and a voltage range of 228V to 252V for your full-phase appliances.

your problem has NOTHING TO DO WITH INPUT VOLTAGE

i wish there was something we could do to help you

 

[Commando]

Update:
I think that is were we are at or just take it back and i will buy something else. The techs (2) spent 4.5 hours and replaced some parts. They insist that it is the houses electrical wiring. 3 electricians from 2 different company's all say its is wired right and there is nothing wrong on my side. We paid 2/3's upfront and that was 5 weeks ago. Hopefully this is not going to be a nightmare.
Yet they could power the printer on using either outlet. Its only when the printer has both cords plugged in that it trips the breaker. They tried the power supply, curing power, and looked at wires. Found a few that were pinched but insist that wast an issue.

If it wasnt for 3M and our traffic signage, I wouldnt have HP latex. Those things are junk. No telling how much money we have lost do to color changing and printing short.
Good luck to you!

 

[netsol]

Nah we transport them on wheels in a van all the time. Very easy to transport.

Update:
I think that is were we are at or just take it back and i will buy something else. The techs (2) spent 4.5 hours and replaced some parts. They insist that it is the houses electrical wiring. 3 electricians from 2 different company's all say its is wired right and there is nothing wrong on my side. We paid 2/3's upfront and that was 5 weeks ago. Hopefully this is not going to be a nightmare.
Yet they could power the printer on using either outlet. Its only when the printer has both cords plugged in that it trips the breaker. They tried the power supply, curing power, and looked at wires. Found a few that were pinched but insist that wast an issue.

i see why they changed the power supply. if both units work independently, how are they connected? do they bolt together? are there interconnect cables?

has anyone been smart enough to unbolt or uncouple and plug both machines in? at this point your electrician or tech should take a relative voltage reading between both machines. i imagine they will find something like a chipped insulator

TRYING WHAT I SUGGESTED COULD CAUSE QUITE A SHOCK HAZARD,if it is a bad insulator, or a reversed connection so, don't try this at home

 

[signage]

AMW ask your electrician if he used GFIC class A or B or GFPE. If he used GFIC class A those are designed to trip at 5mA and a CFIC B is 20mA. The GFIC is for personal protection and as stated above come in 2 different rating, and a GFPE is for equipment protection. Reading HP specs it looks like you may need a GFPE because they say 30mA at 20A, but using a GFPE in a residential setting could be an issue because they are not designed to protect individuals form a potential/lethal shock hazard.

Now this may solve your problem with why the breaker is tripping, I would ask HP if a GFIC class B is acceptable, if not then your electrican would need to see if codes/zoning allows a GFPE to be installed in the location the printer is being installed in.

Hope this clarifies this for all. This printer doesn't look like HP intend them to be installed in a residential setting.

 

[amw]

So we talked to the electrician again and mentioned things the techs and hp said. He (electrician) asked me if i could ask any of you who have one of these and have used a buck booster or transformer to step down the voltage for one of these printers where it is at in the circuit. In other words...

a) The 2 cgfi breakers in the main panel, feeding buck boosters, then the outlets.
b) Larger breaker in main panel feeding the buck booster, then from buck booster to a sub panel with the 2 gfci breakers in them, then the outlets.

Your help is greatly appreciated!

 

[signage]

I do not believe you need a buck boost Xformer, the HP specs state ~200-240VAC so as stated by netsol and
you said earlier that HP also didn't think the 245Vac was the issue. I think it is the GFIC that has been installed is rated below the 30mA threshold. Ask your electrician if he is aware of the different ratings. Like I stated above I do not know if you would be within code using a GFPE were you are located. a GFIC class B may work being it is nearly 4x the mA rating of a class A, and is a lot closer to the 30mA than the 5mA.

 

[amw]

I do not believe you need a buck boost Xformer, the HP specs state ~200-240VAC so as stated by netsol and
you said earlier that HP also didn't think the 245Vac was the issue. I think it is the GFIC that has been installed is rated below the 30mA threshold. Ask your electrician if he is aware of the different ratings. Like I stated above I do not know if you would be within code using a GFPE were you are located. a GFIC class B may work being it is nearly 4x the mA rating of a class A, and is a lot closer to the 30mA than the 5mA.

They are class A i do believe. I was trying to see on them however the type is so small i cant read it.
If you just figured out the issue i will have to send you a case of beer or something! The electrician may have overlooked that, i see it now in the specs.

 

[amw]

I do not believe you need a buck boost Xformer, the HP specs state ~200-240VAC so as stated by netsol and
you said earlier that HP also didn't think the 245Vac was the issue. I think it is the GFIC that has been installed is rated below the 30mA threshold. Ask your electrician if he is aware of the different ratings. Like I stated above I do not know if you would be within code using a GFPE were you are located. a GFIC class B may work being it is nearly 4x the mA rating of a class A, and is a lot closer to the 30mA than the 5mA.

I sent him the info, he hasn't replied yet. However i was just thinking, we tried regular breaker too and it tripped as well. I would think that it is harder to trip a regular breaker then a GFPE?
(He had tried a 30 amp breaker)