Exterior pylon signs: Polycarbonate VS Lexan VS Acrylic....

[vinylvillain]

Ya know, I've been selling signs for about 4.5 years, and every time I email my supplier, my exact words are "whatever is cheapest" when asking for a quote for a tenant panel or pylon sign... But can anyone give me a definitive answer as to what the MAJOR differences are in Polycarbonate, VS Lexan VS Acrylic? And if I should be using one VS the other for certain projects? I consider myself to be on the scale of "intermediate-to-advanced" (far from "SIGN NINJA MASTER"), when it comes to signs and sign knowledge, but this one still trumps me and I just haven't had the time to do my homework. I know lexan comes on a roll (best for oversize) but that's about it.....

PLZ HALP SIGNS WAN oh WAN, YOU'RE MY ONLY HOPE!

 

[Baz]

Agreed on acrylic breaking but it is very often used for exterior signs and can last quite a long time.
It is also available in roll stock.

Polycarbonate yellows over time as well. Acrylic does not (or very little compared to Poly.)

 

[TXFB.INS]

within Acrylic, there is two versions
Cast
Extruded

Think of this like cast and calendar in the vinyl world

 

[ams]

I don't know the tech specs on them, but you should be using polycarbonate (which is lexan apparently) for all illuminated box cabinet signs, acrylic for be for general signage, mainly indoor uses.

 

[mbssigns]

I don't even give my customers the option for plexi. I tell them that it breaks too easy and I'm not going to make a sign that could injure someone. Polycarbonate is not only virtually unbreakable, it is also bullet proof.

 

[bannertime]

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Well that ruined my search history.

 

[Baz]

Yeah it is .. I often buy 3/16" Sign White roll stock lengths.
I get it from Laird Plastics (in Ottawa) and they are an American distributor.

Funny how the majority here swear by Polycarbonate. I don't want to affirm my point much since i do not
manufacture or install sign boxes. I will only replace sign faces and i would say in my years of changing them only
5-10% of the times i am replacing Polycarb. The large majority is acrylic pannels i am replacing.

And you can tell that they have been re lettered a few times before they are finished. (Cracked and scratched all to hell).

 

[shoresigns]

Grimco here (Canada) sells acrylic in both rolls and sheets, and polycarbonate in both rolls and sheets.

 

[bigben]

In my area, everyone is using acrylic. If I quote polycarbonate, my price will be too high. I've installed my fair share of acrylic over 10 years and NEVER had a problem. And remember we got real winter here.

 

[CanuckSigns]

Grimco here sells 3 options
1. polycarb
2. acrylic
3. Impact modified acrylic

I was told impact modified acrylic has the same strength as polycarb and doesn't yellow. all 3 are within 5% of each other price wise, so I usually use the impact modified acrylic.

 

[Gino]

Grimco here sells 3 options
1. polycarb
2. acrylic
3. Impact modified acrylic

I was told impact modified acrylic has the same strength as polycarb and doesn't yellow. all 3 are within 5% of each other price wise, so I usually use the impact modified acrylic.

Not only that, but while poly becomes brittle over time, modified remains stronger, so all-in-all, it's a much better product, in my opinion.

 

[signcrafters london]

Grimco here sells 3 options
1. polycarb
2. acrylic
3. Impact modified acrylic

I was told impact modified acrylic has the same strength as polycarb and doesn't yellow. all 3 are within 5% of each other price wise, so I usually use the impact modified acrylic.

Definitely not true (although it is true that it does not yellow). As I've said in other threads, I use a lot of high-impact acrylic pan faces and they are durable enough for most signs up to 4x8 or maybe 5x10.

But you do have to be very careful with them because the corners will break/crack very easily and under no circumstances can you drill a hole in them or put a screw in them to hold them in a retainer like you can with polycarb. They will also break/crack very easily if the trim size is too big for the cabinet and you have to trim them with a saw.

Even saying all of that, I'd guess 40-50% of the ones I am asked to re-letter have small cracks in them that must be repaired.

A competitor of mine likes to use flat high-impact acrylic faces in box signs. I've lost count of the number of his faces that have been destroyed by wind. And I just replaced the faces in a 5' x 12' sign that had high-impact acrylic faces. Both were totally destroyed by no more than 35-40 mph winds, which are extremely common in this area.

 

[CanuckSigns]

Definitely not true (although it is true that it does not yellow). As I've said in other threads, I use a lot of high-impact acrylic pan faces and they are durable enough for most signs up to 4x8 or maybe 5x10.

But you do have to be very careful with them because the corners will break/crack very easily and under no circumstances can you drill a hole in them or put a screw in them to hold them in a retainer like you can with polycarb. They will also break/crack very easily if the trim size is too big for the cabinet and you have to trim them with a saw.

Even saying all of that, I'd guess 40-50% of the ones I am asked to re-letter have small cracks in them that must be repaired.

A competitor of mine likes to use flat high-impact acrylic faces in box signs. I've lost count of the number of his faces that have been destroyed by wind. And I just replaced the faces in a 5' x 12' sign that had high-impact acrylic faces. Both were totally destroyed by no more than 35-40 mph winds, which are extremely common in this area.

I havn't had any issues, but admittedly I don't do a ton of these types of signs. I thought that a 5'x12' sign would be best done as a flex face no?

 

[Billct2]

I prefer acrylic on smaller signs 4x8 or less, it's whiter and stays whiter longer. Polycarb for anything bigger, exposed to more stress or a need for seamless install.

 

[Techman]

I like the new sign face plastic that diffuses the light better. Very good for use with LED.. It costs more,, but it seems better, No more hot spots.

 

[player]

Harder to glue locking strips on polyc.

As well as zip track...

 

[jman]

Been using acrylic for years on backlit sign panel replacement. Just used poly for the first time on a 5x12 and glad I did with that monster lol

Acrylic for cheaper customers and poly for the customers who want something that will be a bit longer term as it won't break or shatter if someone decides to vandalize it with a rock lol

 

[MikePro]

steel vs. alum. both have their applications.
durability comes with expense of polycarb, but well worth it for anything bigger than 4'x4'. you can bend it, drill it, cut it with a sawzall/jigsaw without chipping/cracking ever.


acrylic is fragile, but holds a true color longer. polycarb has a UV treated-side, but will still begin to yellow after a few years.

anyone having issues gluing letter track to polycarb, isn't using the right adhesive. been doing it for years.

 

[henryz]

It all depends on your customer and their need if you have a monument sign by the curve you might want to explain why you recommend polycarb and not regular acrylic, but like said previously there is a DR acrylic also known as modified acrylic. If you have a channel plaque or wall sign you could use acrylic because the chances are less that some one could smack it. Also depends on sizes if you have a pylon with 3 x 6 faces you can do them out of acrylic but if they are much larger you can should consider DR or polycarb. We use all 3 kinds for our National clients.

 

[a77]

For me, if it's a pylon sign, polycarbonate.
A lightbox that is on a building, and not overly big, acrylic.