Specing translucent prints for electic sign face

[Billct2]

I subbed out an order for a translucent print for an electric face to a major wholesaler.
I asked for a "translucent print to be applied first surface to white acrylic".
The print looks terrible when illuminated. I told them about the problem and asked how they made it, was it layered?
They said I didn't spec that and I should have given them more information.
I asked what information did you need?
Here's the list I just got:

1. When viewed at night, is there a consent light source all behind the graphic?
2. If so, how close is the light source?
3. What is the light source?
4. Is there a front light source at the same time?
5. Does the client want to be able to review without a light source behind it?
6. Are the windows tinted or tempered glass?

Now maybe these are legitimate questions, but when ordering a print for an electic sign can
I don't see the relevance of some of them, or if there is they should have been asked at the time of the order.

I have a feeling I'm going to have to pay to have it reprinted but just wondered what others thought about it.

 

[player]

Did you fill out an order form? I think they dropped the ball, and are now back pedaling to get you to take responsibility for their sales error. If these are the questions they need answered before making a proper sign, then they need to ask them, or present them to you BEFORE they make it, not after.

 

[Billct2]

No order form, just emails.

 

[Billct2]

I may have jumped the gun on this (imagine that a signguy on signs 101 jumping to conclusions), the company has responded again and wants to know the answer tothos equestions to solve the problem noy get out of fixing it.

 

[fresh]

I had a similar issue two weeks ago ordering something from a wholesaler. I ordered an 8ftx8ft step & repeat banner, and the JERKS sent me a freaking seamed banner. WTF. I have a freakin' printer, I could have made it and seamed it myself and saved about $160. Instead this company sent me garbage, and I didn't receive it until 2 hours before the event so there was nothing I could do about it.

When I called them, they said "Oh you need to specify that it was to be one piece." UM, NO. I ordered the same banner from them last year, and did not need to specify "one piece". Also, I requested matte banner, and they sent it on gloss, and they refused to refund me. My client of course was super upset, so I couldn't charge her for the garbage, and the company (a merchant member here btw) won't refund me.

I feel like such a fool, because there is another company who has done great work for me that I should have used for this project. But I like to place a few orders here and there with different vendors just to make sure I have doors open if there is ever an issue in the future. This was a great way for them to lose my business forever.

Anyway, back to your issue.... Those questions are mostly irrelevant. The only thing that could make a difference is if the box required a pan face, and you used a flat-face, but I don't think that was the case. The translucent vinyl should have been "double struck" and it might not be super bright, but it shouldn't look like crap, either. We have done plenty of signs without a 2nd surface print that look good.

 

[GB2]

It's either:

Single print first surface, which will give you the proper image in daylight and washed out image when backlit or

Double print first surface, which will give you a good though maybe a shade dark in daylight but good proper image when backlit orr

Two seperate prints layered together to give you proper image during daylight and when backlit.


You probably should have been very specific about how you wanted it when you ordered it. The single print is not a good option under any circumstances. I think the double print method is the best for 90% of what you will be doing unless you are producing signs for a national chain that has very specific requirements. The layered method is good but very expensive and more complex to produce.

 

[player]

It must be hard to make complex graphics line up on 2 separate prints...

 

[Z SIGNS]

I hate when misunderstandings happen.

Printed illuminated sign faces are always a crap shoot.

When ever we make one we always use the methods that have been covered here before.
Image on clear,image on translucent and laminate on top of that or some variation of that.

We let the customer know it's going to look different at night.

Sounds like a communication problem somewhere.

If you told them an illuminated sign face and they did not at least layer it and talk to you about expectations before hand
I would be PO too.

Hope you get it resolved.

 

[MikePro]

It must be hard to make complex graphics line up on 2 separate prints...

I do it both ways, depending on the application. two prints on face, or print/reverseprint face/back. (clear/whitetrans, of course, dual white trans. dulls the light too much)
..and both methods look INCREDIBLE!!!

if you put a reversed print on the backside of the translucent panel, the alignment is just as simple as applying centered/square. Any minute offset comes out in the wash.
If you can't take my word for it, ...make a sample. Not that hard.

i make illuminated signage, for a living... and I don't bother to ask if they want dual-layered transluscent prints or not BECAUSE it looks like junk otherwise. Even if I tried double-striking the ink on a single-layer print. No way that would ever leave my shop.
Clients are willing to pay a premium BECAUSE it's illuminated, otherwise they'd be asking you for dibond and vinyl. Don't cheapen your reputation, and potentially scare-away future projects, by trying to save some ink/vinyl.
#justsayin'

for reference, pics attached: single-layer print (day), single-layer print (night), and then same print with reverse-print on clear and applied to backside of panel (night)

 

[Billct2]

Great visual proof Mike

 

[J Hill Designs]

so yeah, long story short, just order a mirror print on clear and drop it on 2nd surface

 

[Marlene]

I'm more surprised that a major company that makes faces wouldn't know how to get it to look good when lighted. who cares about how far away, other lights and all that other stuff. they should have all this down by now. other factors are the thickness and the level of how opaque the white is. the milkly stuff vs the real white makes a difference too