Search results

Hard to answer as most will depend on turnover and margin as some can be really expensive. 40k + to start.. There are lots of vendors out there, but you've got to be realistic with expectations.

Depends on the volume and use. You could try dipping into pu varnish. Quick, cheap and strong. But, longer drying time as thicker coverage. Usually when I work on projects, I work with clients to modify designs to suit the required task - makes it much easier for everyone. As an example...

Problem with co2 is the minimum power when it will laze.. Its not 0-100, it'll be something like 10-80% - so instantly your picture is off. Plus co2 lasers aren't instant, so there's alot more involved in getting a picture than just engraving. A fiber laser is a MUCH better tool - you can even...

Easiest way to think of it is.. How much would it cost YOU if you lost them? Think of lost contracts, training, customer relations, etc. What experience would walk out that door? The staff are your company - they equally represent you. If you can't pay a decent salary then that's poor...

Give them something that shows their name and yours.. Preferably something they can then pass on to others.. Benefits both.. Donuts and a bbq don't hurt either.. Depends on how big your customer base is and location.

Sounds like a problem with the feed rollers.. One side could be worn so the media doesn't advance the same on both sides.

It's going to sound like a crazy idea.. But what's behind the wall? Some times there can be a pressure differential and as walls are generally porous, any thing affixed to such a wall will be pushed off. Usually happens to plant rooms or external walls. Rare..but can happen.

Noises usually mean grit has got into the bearing.. You can disassemble them, but do it on a bench with a towel on it.. Stops the balls disappearing instantly. Just undo the return and the balls will come out. Don't loose any.. Lol When reassembling use the recommended grease. Whilst there is...

If you just want to cut some letters, there's no need to do anything other than cut them. You don't need to use vlcd2. Virtually all cutting programs will work as long as you've got the driver setup correctly.

Problem with a lot of the big brands is software. They won't work with lightburn which tbh really makes a difference. Its all horses for courses though.. They are good machines with support, but often only offer small operating areas and are expensive. Chinese ones are MUCH cheaper, run...

Biggest problem with that it it's often hard to identify issues without the rest of the hardware.

Lasers are very simple things.. Basically a very strong light and a few mirrors. Chinese machines are great, but the software is rubbish.. So buy lightburn.. Makes even the worst piece of junk sing. Find a cheap 2nd hand machine of a suitable size and off you go. Bare in mind. The laser tube...

OK.. From what it's doing there are a number of things it can be.. First is easiest. With the power OFF (for a while) - give socketed chips a push - they can get loose. This sounds like a firmware issue, so whichever chip holds that. Might have a sticker on it. Could be in handset or...

The other thing to remember is that old machines like this are perfect to retrofit to a modern control system. It's usually not that expensive to do depending on the state of the rest of the hardware. Then you can use modern software, etc.

Check baud settings in device manger match the Plotter. Make sure flow control is off. Serial ports are bomb proof, but can be a pain to get setup.. Got one atm where I'm trying to get a straight though cable but supplier's keep sending null modem leads as they don't know the difference...

Lightburn will work with it, but I'd think it's too tall to fit underneath the laser

Its really just free floating ink without a substrate. Same sort of thing as hydro dipping.

Usually not.. Just cut them out roughly.. Its basically just the ink attached to the lacquer film with a water based glue underneath. Very fragile. But fine once on the model and protected by lacquer

It's all about the artwork. Always use vectors as they scale.. Bitmaps don't. When printing use the highest dpi possible. Canon and Epson printers tend to have some of the highest dpi settings possible. Models tend to use water slide decals. You can make them on consumer inkjet printers. For...

Encoders usually have an index mark, perhaps when you wiggle things it does something strange so it wants to orientate it - then doesn't give the right signals