Search results

If someone is going to grab the edge of a letter and pull on it, it will either bend (ACM) or break (thin acrylic). Either result will require a new letter. The ACM letter though would cause more of a injury concern if a letter were bent and poking out. Nothing is vandal-proof obviously, so...

I would also vote for VHB tape and silicone for what you're doing. I agree that it isn't the best choice of material - primarily because of peoples lack of common sense and inability to keep their hands off things. I would opt for acrylic with eased edges.

I'd pick up a lathe from Harbor Freight, mask it off prior to painting and go to town. It'd be a write off and a useful tool for future projects.

It happens with virtually anything adhesive. The zero- and low-voc paints composition makes it difficult for anything to adhere to it.

We have a 12 year old Staffordshire Bull Terrier that still acts like a puppy but is losing feeling in his rear legs (nerve damage). Projected to be paralyzed in both legs within 6-12 months. The vet said due to quality of life, most are then euthanized. He's survived three cancerous tumors so...

I don't think it's the tape - more than likely the install surface.

Rather than re-type it, I'll just copy and paste info I wrote in another thread: Not all VHB tapes are recommended for vinyl. Vinyl contains plasticizer which can negatively affect the adhesion of VHB tape. The only VHB tapes recommended for direct use on vinyl are: 4941, 4945 and 4991. Also...

Looks good. Which VHB tape was used?

Agreed with using overlay panels. Refurbishing those on site is borderline ridiculous. Make new panels slightly oversized to hide the existing and you'll finish in a fifth of the time and have a better, more stable product.

Lexel adheres better to acrylic and dries clearer than silicone. There's no such thing as an invisible adhesive though - there's always a chance you'll see portions of the adhesive since the letters are clear. You could use a few pieces of clear tape along with the Lexel, but again - you'll...

Sorry, I'm missing the point.

You could try Master Signs here in Dallas. They do nice work. No real need to pay for shipping from Ohio or Missouri.... The attached is completely painted, 2nd surface, no vinyl.

I would try low expanding spray foam (for doors and windows). It's much easier to control and can be applied more precisely. If you get any on the face of the letter, clean it with acetone before it dries.

Those look like Gyford: click

This was an acrylic sign that was damaged in shipping. Installed on a concrete wall til the replacement came. The picture is after removing all of the tape and silicone except for the bottom. Silicone would never adhere this well. The sign is 19" x 16", double-layered, so about 4.5 lbs. The...

Yeah, any sign shop that does fabrication or metal shop. Typically referred to as a pan panel, pan sign, etc. Looks a bit cleaner if you use aluminum angle for the returns rather than brake-forming them like they did there. Aluminum angle, mitered at the corners, attached with VHB tape or...

Preparation is definitely key. It's rare that I don't have everything with me that I need. I guess it depends on what kind of installs you're doing though, too.

The tape can hold up to the elements without issue, so that's not something I worry about when applying it. If I were to use 1" angle on each side of the 2" post as the OP mentioned, I would put four 2" lengths of VHB tape down each of the lengths of aluminum angle. I would do the same down...

Agreed, I would use aluminum.

Let's start over.