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I am left handed and use my right hand on the mouse. It's just how I learned.

Take a look at page 156 in the user manual. There is a section called P/C SCALE ADJUST that adjusts the print/cut alignment over a distance so it stays consistent.

When you changed the ink lines, how did you fill them? Manually with a syringe or using the machine's ink fill function? Is there ink currently in the black lines?

If none of the channels fill then yes it could be the pump. Usually I start with a cap top first and flush the lines to make sure they aren't clogged. The pump is usually the last part as it fails the least.

It looks like you're designing in RGB which isn't totally wrong or anything but it does mean you're going to be able to select colors in your design software that simply aren't going to print perfectly on a CMYK printer. Basically, the colors you chose are out of gamut for your machine.

No. You could but it would be a lot of work. If you take the left cover off and move the head all the way to the left of the machine, you can get a decent look at the bottom of the head.

When you checked the pressure, was is sitting at a fairly stable number or was it moving around a lot? Sometimes it can be 'in range" but fluctuating too much.

When you change dampers on this machine, a single hard cleaning should fill the lines 100% with no air. If you struggled to get the air out, I'm thinking the maintenance station isn't working 100%. Since it's new that points me to the head having ink build up where it seals with the cap top so...

You can replace the card reader and that works a lot of the time. I also see people get bad cards from Mutoh and aftermarket ink suppliers all the time. If you are using OEM inks, your supplier should be able to get you new ones. If you are using aftermarket, it depends on the company.

Solvent printers can print on pretty much anything that doesn't have an aqueous coating on it. Obviously you want to test it before long runs. Talk to a supplier. They'd be happy to recommend some materials to test out.

Good advice from everyone above. Another good way to test this out it to simply do a damper swap. Put the magenta damper in the yellow position and vice versa and then run a cleaning cycle. Print a nozzle check and see what happens. If the magenta prints fine in the yellow position and yellow...

It's a timer that indicates the maintenance station has done as many cycles as expected for it's lifetime. It doesn't mean it's bad though.

Yeah that's either what unclebun said or also a stuck wiper or swollen flushing sponge. Check that the wiper goes back to tit's home when the printer is printing. The wiper should be out of the path of the head. Also check the flushing sponge to the left of the wiper and make sure it's not...

I'd try the ENV MATCH then. I've seen it happen on older models a bunch of times where the print/cut alignment is off and won't get any better no matter what you do until that function is carried out. Other than that, maybe Joe House has some insight.

Print cut alignments can be off depending on the material thickness and other factors. Take a look at the user manual and there is a section on how to do the user alignment. Also, if it's an older model, try running the ENV MATACH function in the menu. It is an automatic function that...

We have them in stock if you need one. If it were me I would try flushing the current head with a syringe and cleaning solution. It's a last resort measure but sometimes you get lucky and can clear it out. You can also damage the head internally so that's why it's last resort. Mutoh 1624 print...

Sounds good. One word of caution. most people I have spoken to about 20" machines regret not getting a 30". 20" is not a common material size so you'll be stuck buying expensive stuff, pay extra for rolls to be slit, or have to slit them yourself. They aren't bad machines just inconvenient...

I agree. It's definitely something blown electronically. Most likely the main board. Unfortunately other than finding someone who can test and repair boards, you're going to have to throw parts at it. My guess is the main board but it could be the head or any cable or board between the head and...

Hopefully the open source movement has an answer to this. I can't imagine it being that hard for the right person, smarter than me, to build a universal, open source color matching system.

I agree with everything above. If you want to install a head yourself you can save pretty big if you check out our options. We have original Mimaki and compatible alternatives as well.