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This might raise more questions than answers but see my print out below from a CJV150. The print circled in green is your EPS file unedited and it looks a lot like your output. The print circled in blue is the original PDF from your customer, which had tons of clipping masks and weird file...

That all looks pretty standard to me. If you want to upload the file I can print it out on my CJV150 I have in the shop and see if the output is any better.

If you can, take a screenshot of your profile settings page on one of those jobs. We might be able to spot a setting out of place.

The input profile could still be different. The TIFF might be set to sRGB and the PDF might be on Adobe RGB or something like that. At the end of the day, if the TIFF prints correctly on it's own and not after linking it in the PDF, something is converting the color and that's usually going to...

I think you're on the right track. You might be designing in CMYK color mode and linking in an RGB TIFF into the file. If you don't include the profiles, it will default to the PDF color setting.

lol I'm sure I would! I guess I haven't been in one of the major trades so it's been different for me. I've been fixing printers in the field for over 13 years. Every tool I've ever needed was either provided or I bought it with the company card. Just bought metric feeler gauges the other day.

If I was an independent contractor and was asked to bring my own tools, I'd say, "Of course." If I am a regular employee and my employer asked me to buy my own tools I'd tell them to pound sand.

A watched pot never boils! The JFX200 is considered entry level as far as speed goes. It's a good compliment to a sign shop but it won't have you competing with wholesale yard sign manufacturers that's for sure.

You're right. Guess I was thinking of another printer!

You can clear the error log but that won't stop the error from popping up. Mimaki keeps it simple. There's a float sensor that reads the water level and if it's too low it just gives the error. Maybe the float sensor is stuck? I'd give it a few taps to see if maybe it's just stuck in the low...

Rasterlink's preview is not usually a 100% accurate representation of what's going to print and cut. It's more just for layout purposes. But it sounds like you're actually printing and cutting it and the cut is off? I'd start by running the print/cut alignment. You can download the user manual...

Try Joe Reyes. I know he works in Texas but not sure how far he travels. Worth a shot. 210-376-8783

He means the actual original factory parameters. If you email Mimaki and give them the machine model, serial number, and ask for the original factory parameters, they'll send them over to you. The factory default set is not the same as original factory parameters. Each machine gets calibrated...

The first error you got means the lamps were overheating and the second one means it detected low coolant. When you fill the coolant from empty most of the time it requires you to turn the machine on and let it cycle for a little bit to fill the lines and then you need to add more to fill it...

If I'm understanding correctly, you just want to use the half cut function so that you can cut normally using the half cut tool's softer protections strip? You should be able to go into the tool setting for the Half tool and simply turn off the half cut. That will make it cut like a normal tool...

The error basically means the slider board isn't being detected. Check your connection between CN8 on the slider board to CN6 on the main board. Then check CN1 on the slider to CN101 on the main board. Those are the connections that communicate between the boards. Make sure the cable is still...

Make sure your not just in local mode or something. it's one of the more annoying things about Mimakis that you have to be in remote mode for it to communicate. Also as netsol said, make sure all of your power management settings are set to never power off. Is the static IP address reserved in...

The RIP is generally going to be better at converting from RGB to CMYK so I would try that and see what the customer thinks. I would inform the customer that going from RGB to CMYK is always going to be hit or miss and that in the future they should just design in CMYK to begin with. There are...

It's a preset so you can save multiple settings for different materials. So you can set it up in Flexi and have different tools with different pressure and speed settings saved so you don't have to remember them every time you change material.

It's either a connection issue or the RIP is set to RIP while printing and the file sis so large that the printer can print faster than the computer can RIP.