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With those deep nasty dirt, vegetation, etc filled crevices I don't think any material would stick besides something like 480 and you'd have to roll every inch of that. I sure wouldn't trust any of our regular outdoor pavement graphics on that surface.

IJ480 is the vinyl you're gonna want to use, and have a 3M Certified Installer put it on for you. We're getting ready to do one this month here ourselves for a food bus. They're not fun at all.

Call Onyx and they'll tell you the minimum version you need to run your combo. We have a couple different versions here on our rip stations. We've had 1 rip running Mimaki, HP and Epsons all at once. We still run our CG130FXII here through Onyx.

You can adjust the opacity of the white ink by adjusting the opacity or percentage in your artwork file to achieve different looks with white inks. Same as you can print any amount of other ink colors. I'd guess you're looking for "solid white" (100% ink fill) leaves, but the surrounding areas...

I know this is not what you requested, but I really really recommend the GFP laminators. We have 2 here and laminate a crap ton of vinyl every day without issue.

I'd have them get in touch with their dealer immediately.

This is a mail services truck built on a golf cart body. First one I've seen, but maybe yall will run into them soon also? 1/10 scale.

Never heard about it until now. Thank you. Downloaded it and tried it already today, will be buying it!

Here is a band trailer template; I'm sure no two are the exact same, but hopefully this helps someone get a good start on one. 1/10 scale.

I agree with trying to recover some of the nozzles in the test print first. After that you can try the print head alignment and calibration. What software are you using to print (RIP), what vinyl are you printing on? (some gives bad prints even with good profiles)

We used the make-up applicator wedges from the dollar store without issue when I worked at a previous print shop.

We trim a couple of 1/8 and 1/4" strips of laminate off of our laminate rolls with our slitter before we laminate. Makes it easier on the laminator with no hang-over and you get FREE rolls of edge seal tape. Our slitter is one of the best purchases we've made here.

Heads aren't in that great of shape, hence the grainy prints. Also, the material feed between passes needs adjusted. I can't recall 100% what it's called but it is adjusted on the machine itself base doff the "baseline" calibration that is done when you align the heads. You might have to start...

Definitely Wacom, I've tried the cheaper larger ones and they're just too glitchy. Went back to Wacom.

Nope, it does happen less frequently now though. Might have been caused by lots of previous jobs left in the que. We do a better job of keeping it tidy now.

Yeah, I am also getting the full-screen cover-up pop up on EVERY page I go to on this site. Takes forever to finish loading then you have to close it to see the content you just clicked on. I think I'll take a hiatus and try again next week and see if it's gone. The little ad at the bottom is...

It's pretty straight forward. Pull the cover and you can access the lines easily.

I'd farm them out until you find a better deal. The Roland is definitely going backwards in technology (and quality). I do not know about the other one. Look around on FB Marketplace and Craigslist, call your local supply vendors and ask them to keep an eye/ear out. We picked up a couple used...

I would have recommended the 60600 myself, it is what we went with. The dual CMYK seems to hit anything I've needed it to and we've barely ever used the white ink in our old 70675. The new Mimaki looks interesting also, but I have not seen it in person.

Cap tops, clogged/dirty pump lines or pumps going bad can all cause this. I think dampers can possibly cause it also but from my experience it is usually a from the cap tops down issue.