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I would install the latest driver from Mimaki's website. The CDs tend to be out of date and glitchy. Also install Rasterlink the same way. The CDs that come with the printer are really bad.

I've never seen true unlimited chips on a Mimaki that didn't have some sort of chip writer built in. Usually you have to push a button or send a command from a piece of software to reset them. That's not to say they don't exist but I have yet to encounter them. I don't sell that kind of system...

You change the name in the "Printer Name" box but you can only name the printer if there is a printer selected in the "Available Printers" box.

When you add the printer in Rasterlink, the window pops up and you select the machine model from the list, the color setup, and the communication. Then there is an, "Available Printers" box that you select the printer from and it should show the machine serial number. Under the, "Available...

You don't need to bother with Windows drivers for these printers. Just make sure the Mimaki USB driver is installed, set the printers up in the RIP and just make sure to name them differently in Rasterlink.

It will run fine on Windows 10. Just make sure you run it in Administrator mode as the cut function doesn't work unless you do for some reason.

Interesting. Does the platen heater and pre-heater heat up?

As soon as most manufacturer techs hear 3rd party ink they will hone in on that and never let go. It's most likely a company policy in their defense. I would make sure your machine is level and try another cleaning. Also, check your cartridges to make sure they have ink in them. If everything...

My guess is your machine is running dye sub inks and someone cut the heater wires to prevent accidental heating.

I think Jim Hancock might do these types of repairs as well.

Welcome! Good to have an Epson tech around. I don't see as many of them here in the forums and I don't have any experience with them, although I work on Epson based machines all the time. Just be aware if you want sell parts etc. on Signs101 you have to get a merchant membership. It's worth the...

When you change the dampers the ink will recede back to the cartridge. Did you do an ink fill or some hard cleanings after installing? Take the fuses out of the board to test them. Sometimes you will get a bad reading when they are installed for whatever reason. The fact that you aren't getting...

The encoder disc for the RJ900 and VJ1304 are the same so you should be good there. You might clean it with alcohol to be sure there is no grease or dust build up on it. Air dust the sensor for that one too!

I know it sounds stupid but, did you take the protective liner off the encoder strip before installing it? If you did or used a generic one that didn't have the protective liner, I would start thinking about the encoder sensor. You can air dust it to get rid of all the dust build up and that...

It almost looks like a material issues when the ink gets more saturated. Have you tried other materials? Does this same material print fine on your 1204?

Ok that makes sense. I don't work a lot with dye sub. The nozzle check is looking like there is some deflection which is usually partially clogged nozzles. You could try doing a nozzle soak in cleaning solution to see if that clears it up any. As THLII said, it does look like cross contamination...

No problem it's what we do! Motors rarely go bad. It's almost always a physical jam or the encoder disc and/or sensor is going bad.

How does the nozzle check look? I'm seeing a bunch of over spray which is usually a sign of a failing head.

What does your nozzle check look like? Did you run the head alignments after installing the head?

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