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thanks Fred - Missed that area! BTW - I have art and want to sub this out. Not sure of the process for lasers, but know what the end product looks like.

I was not sure where to post this, but maybe here works? I have art for a plaque that I need laser engraved into a brushed steel or maybe a galvanized piece of metal that will be mounted on a corrugated interior wall. As far as size goes, my customer is trying to figure that out, but less...

I use MotoWrap for a some labels on low energy motorsports safety devices and have zero complaints. I use 4mil convex lam, not the pro shield stuff, but have used the 12mil stuff on karts and such. never a complaint.

We do everything possible seamless. Saw a competitors work the other day and they had a seam dead center on the drivers door with the logo placed on top of the seam - it showed it off really bad. I can't image letting the customers car out of my shop like that.

Why not use 440's instead of 220's? good account to land for sure!

Start with three guys. Remove all the backing for the entire panel. One guy on each end and one guy in the middle with a squeegee in hand. Hold vinyl taught and let it sit against the top-outer edge of the flare and squeege a hard line along that top outer edge. Follow that line around back...

That site is funny... In the rotating header/news deal, the second item is a "1/2 cordless impact wrench." Only half a cord? Is that enough for osha? Ok.. back to your regularly scheduled searching...

Apparently, you all read right over my initial post - it is available in photoshop...

Thanks for standing up - we have the same thoughts about a handful of things, and I for one, am glad you got it out in the open. Good luck in your past/new role!

There is an option for doing this in CS4 that is a two step deal, not what Fred said, cause you will have issues doing it that way. Here is a quick tutorial - http://www.graphics.com/modules.php?name=Sections&op=viewarticle&artid=699

Move the carriage to the left. I get this if it is parked too far to the right.

I think registration should happen at the focal point of the art. If that is 3/4 the way up, that is where it needs to happen. I know you said the picture is done, but does the design allow for some fudge factor? That would help allot.

Welcome to the site from just about an hour and a half south of you!

I cant find anyone carrying the dark grey. Can you PM me or post your supplier? :thankyou:

Curious as well.... I use Solvex window perf and it has been pretty good so long as you seal edges. If you don't lifting starts after 6 or so months, but am 15 months in on a sealed window and no problems.

http://dinocfilm.com/auto.html They are a supplier....

Randy knows his stuff - so read that a couple of times to let it sink in. I was having some banding issues as well, and discovered that small heat changes can make a big difference. What helped me out was to have a high pre-heat, lower platten and high post - just like you, but more heat. I am...

where are your heat settings?

Welcome, from the opposite side of KC!

I have the DingTech, and after getting it set right, I am completely happy with it for the last year and a half that I have owned it. Webbing is easy in comparison to the RS from what I hear and I don't need to run butcher paper backer with my prints (I read a thread saying that it helped to...