Search results

I have a customer who is starting a food truck/trailer, and need input on the logo design. His last name is Eder and its pronounced "eater", I think this might cause confusion but he is set on the name. Anyways just looking for general critique and two things that are bothering me I would like...

http://www.skidril.com/ we have the g20d 2 stroke works great if putting a slug in the ground one person but need two if up on a ladder just to have someone hand it up.

Thank you. Those are indeed the part numbers listed on the ones I found I just wonder how I can verify they are roland parts.

I need to get a drive belt and pulleys for my XJ-540. My dealer quoted over $1200 for parts and to change them out. I can install everything myself and so far I think I found the needed parts for under $250. The only thing is how do I know they are OEM? They say OEM but they also say...

just pay jsmortz those are real solid

Swifers ftw we use one a week unless it gets dropped on the floor

We use accucuter conermate ours is the one that is good for 080 same die for 8 years.

This is one of the ones we made, 2" and 1" steel tubing with 2 sheets of 3/4 plywood top. Adjustable feet and threaded rod welded to the casters. Its 5'x10' cutting mat get replaced roughly every 18 months.

if the rollers are crowned make sure your laminate and media is centered in the rollers

Your installing 600' in one day? ... UberXL

We order everyone 5-10 tshirts with pockets, logo front and back every year plus a couple of sweaters w/o hoods. I have a few polos and a couple of nice pull over sweaters that are embroidered when needed.

I don't like doing anything wet anymore. What has worked well for myself is cutting the registration mark out of the top layers with an exacto and line them up that way, then apply dry.

rapid remover, dawn and water, finish with alcohol.

fellers

Personally I find it easier to tack the one side then run your squeegee in the middle from center out then up from the first stroke all the way out then down, then the other side. You'll get perfect alignment and it's much quicker. Now this only works with RA and you will need a plank for sure...

I have never worked with smalt but could you route out the background leaving just the boarder then smalt the background then route the lettering after its dried?

Overlap or pass on job, sounds like one of those customer that will be upset you did what they asked for after advising them otherwise, and will surely badmouth any chance they get.

Flatten in PS scale it to 50% or even 25% then scale 200% or 400% in VW.

I agree that you need a new installer... The only thing that should be wet applied is large etched glass jobs. I know I'm not alone on this, any water behind wrap film will not allow the adhesive to stick at all. I have had water weep out from under a window seal (rushing prep process) a few...

forgot the script