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I have sold millions of $ of LED's in the past and the quality modules from reputable manufacturers seldom fail. Almost all sign failures I encountered were power supply's. I had one GE module fail in 6 years and cannot count how many power supplies failed. Samsung as far as I am aware are not...

As Boudica mentioned it should work well and no need for lamination. Test prior to production as he also mentioned.

Curious now, how many watts per module? how many modules per power supply? Which power supply did you use? Is it possible you overloaded the power supply. LED's seldom fail, power supplies fail more often

Are they actual Samsung modules or 3rd party with Samsung chips? If actual Samsung try here https://www.samsung.com/led/lighting/led-modules/# Click contact at bottom of the page

Allanson has some nice RGB solutions

Orafol 3621 2 - 4 year product.

6mm composite panel?

As mentioned cling vinyl is loaded with plasticizers to keep it supple. Over time, usually 3 months or when subjected to heat the plasticizers will migrate to the surface and inks will not wet out. Not sure if this also causes the wrinkling but it sure puts a monkey wrench into the printing...

Maybe this acrylic will work for you. https://www.acrylite.co/3735b-endlighten-led-technical-brochure.html Looks like in the picture you are just illuminating the edge a few inches in, maybe .5 watt led's will work, possibly on a 12V 20 watt power supply. Allanson has these and others...

[QUOT Those LED's look to be RGB is that what you are looking to use? are you setting them at a specific color? E="Texas_Signmaker, post: 1514849, member: 64288"]standard roll off amazon???? huh???

You will need a combination of proper LED's and Edge Lit acrylic. There may be some testing involved, talk to your local supplier for guidance.

If the ink is a free radical uv and totally cured the photo initiators should not impact the color. The only time I have seen photo initiators have an impact was a clear that printed yellow and photo bleached over 24 hours and became clear. Having said this my knowledge of Cationic uv is not...

Most of the original cationic uv inks have been replaced now. Glossy UV inks that are undercured can look matte, undercured matte uv inks can show as glossy, As far as color shift I cannot answer that one.

If UV inks do not totally cure there will be more odor. The odor is caused by free monomers that have not totally cross linked. Usually most UV inks post cure about 5%. If you are under cured too much they will not cure and you may have adhesion issues due to a soft ink film. This is based on...

There are no solvents in UV inks however ground level ozone is a bi product of the curing process and is probably best vented out of the building. A sign of ground level ozone is you want to rub your eyes and may encounter breathing issues.

Sloan and GE have high quality products and most of the program spec work. Hanley is co specified on many programs and is a decent product and more reasonably priced. Grimco carries the Hanley line. They also have acrylic, polycarbonate, aluminum for backers, channel coil and aluminum extrusions.

Gino, Based on the poster above mentioning a solvent base clear coat over the UV coating. Intercoat adhesion would need to be established. Let's assume the initial UV coating is cured, gassed off for the desired time and passed the cross hatch and tape test. Then the clear can be applied and...

I worked for Nazdar for year

The OP is using UV inks and most likely needs a compatible clear coat. Some solvent based products may rewet the UV coating or not adhere. Excellent point regarding, test prior to production.

Just curious, does this paint work on top of UV ink? is there intercoat adhesion?