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We laser cut so it doesn't really matter before or after. Clean cuts and no dust. It's definitely easier to cut first though so we don't have to worry about cut alignment.

We print on MDF every 2nd week or so. None of it is colour critical, so we just print as normal and if we need the whites to stand out, we just spot colour those parts of the design. The only issue is getting the printer to hold the board down for the whole job. Our jobs are all on 6mm board so...

Is Illustrator completely crashing or are you just not able to use it while the main CM5 dialog is open?

We build our own profiles for each media type. Every printer should have a spectrophotometer and not be relying on canned profiles as there is so much variation between printers, media and environment.

Almost looks like the cut path managed to 'un-weld' itself back to base objects.

Our heads are 5.5 years old and not a single magenta nozzle has failed.

I think this was mentioned on here a little while ago... you might be able to rotate the cut job 180 degrees and it should start cutting from the "front" of the machine again. I think I brought this up and Ikarasu confirmed, but not 100% sure.

Replacing captops is not a maintenance task on the Epson SureColor range and are not a (officially) user replaceable part. Here is the unit which contains the captops: https://www.sdott-parts.com/epson-surecolor-s40600-s40610-s60600-s60610-pump-cap-assy-esl-asp-1832881-1738176.html

Probably Onyx giving themselves something to pat themselves on the back for fixing in v23.

I think it cuts in the correct direction if you don't use the barcode function and just send the job from CutServer and enable 180 degree rotation on the job.

Look at the barcode you are reading first... the last letter will be either an F (front) or B (back). If the leading edge of the print is the back side first, it will start from the furthest point and work towards the leading edge.

From the 2080 bulletin: It's not designed to be a printable film... however we have successfully printed on 1080 for a custom wrap in the past with a solvent machine.

Just select CMYK printer instead of the specific Epson printer in the list.

Don't feel bad about using i1Profiler. We tend to get better profiles than using Onyx's color engine so have been doing it that way for 5+ years.

Do you have a white channel in your UV printer? We do 3 layered CMYK/W/CMYK and backlits look great when the lights are either on or off.

Scissors?

We just use this site... you can make the QR do whatever you like: https://www.free-barcode-generator.net/qr-code/ It exports to all the popular formats, including a few vector ones. Here's one that goes directly to this thread:

You need a better profile... preferably something you make yourself to match that vinyl to your printer. We print on both matte and gloss banner materials and the only thing different is the finish. Colours are identical across both.

As Pauly mentioned above... the Arizona will center anything sent to the RMO. You could fudge it by mounting the roll off-centre if you really need to, but it would be job-width dependent.

Are you on 21.0? If so, that version has all sorts of weird Fotoba mark issues. Supposedly fixed in 21.1.