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I roll on ClearShield. Light coat, or two, and it doesn't fill in the holes.

fine in wisco, blue skies abound...but brilliant red sunsets.

never had that issue from Watchfire or Daktronics. fans & airflow built-into every unit.

is the white/clear adhesive a deal breaker? there's some really great grey-backed conformable cast media out there and I've never seen my adhesive after install on glass but I use different vinyl for that application anyways.

Target has plenty of support, if you're lookin' to expand your collection. ...hardware section, of course, but it might be tucked in the back

well that should be a give-in. if you're printing on clear, and most likely applying it onto a clear/tinted window, then you've gotta be able to print white or its a bust anyways. however, I've never had a crash from printing a perforated fill pattern but I guess I've never tried doing it for...

potato tomato. pick your poison: -slapping on a printed overlay for the name/number change is cheaper/easier than production/removal of vinyl on vinyl -layering vinyl on vinyl adds to cost of the wrap. although it may save headache/time of getting the text in the wrap absolutely perfect with...

clear polyester film(linked) would be your best bet haven't used this one specifically, but just search/inquire "printable non-adhesive optically clear polyester film" through your suppliers.

i haven't tried it, but it might be possible to run the software without the dongle in "demo mode" to open old files and copy to clipboard for pasting into another program. I'm sure there's also plenty of other Gerber heroes on this forum that would convert the occasional file for an eventual...

gross. sheet lamination of perforated graphics will never be clear, by nature of its application. liquid lamination is the way to go if you want the clearest result OR printing a perforated graphic/pattern onto a sheet of clear vinyl.

most transfer tape brands have a HighTack version. we use Rtape & Briteline hitack transfer tapes for 3M's dusted/frosted crystal vinyls without issue

are the knurled nuts supposed to be tamper-resistant too? i know that there's "trident" security nuts that you can use with carriage bolts but if I had to "tamper-resist" a knurled nut, then I feel like I'd have to drill&tap a security set screw into the side of it.

you would need to use a downcut bit to make this work. upcut pulls the vinyl up with the chips and shreds. downside, is that you need room for the chips to go so pre-filling an offset path before applying the field of vinyl would be ideal, before downcutting through the vinyl but then finishing...

i'm assuming your power is still wired? kinda defeats the purpose of "wireless" then

+1 Stacey's suggestion. its a banner on a wall at this point. just slap it up with lots of grommets and frame/cover the perimeter with something pretty.

ij35 is just as good as cast wrap vinyl in this case, indoor&wrapped around, especially if you have the ability to remove those corner caps and reinstall on top of your finished wrap. any exposed vinyl edges will take a beating with table cleanings. you could also save a buck, and ditch the 3M...

+1 Flatbed Tools only bits i've bought off amazon were disappointing unless they were amana/belin/onsrud resellers, however I still buy cheapo jeweler's bits (1/64, 1/32, 1/16) knowing that they always break easily regardless of brand.

i would have quoted the same if they want cheap, then offer ziptied signs on rebar or Uchannel posts staked into the ground, and a note to your client that they may need manual uprighting every freeze/thaw.

from what i read via the googles....australia only requires a decal on the window, not a reflective one. i only searched because i was curious why they would want reflective on a typically upward-curved window that would never reflect back at cars/headlights like a street sign would. ...and...