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This time it came out 1591mm & 1593mm. So it's short, but only 2mm difference on each side. Printing short makes me think OMAS. I'm going to turn it off, see if it gets closer to the 1600mm (and see how much the quality is effected). And next time I'm getting the lag I'll do the same, print...

Indeed :) Are you doing these too are you? We turn the printer off at night because of this regular problem. If it is a heat related issue (which it could well be), I guess it wouldn't be a stretch to think that glitchy electronics could result in a mechanical malfunction of the feed rollers...

Our 260 is dedicated to jobs that aren't vital with the colour. I recently changed a light magenta because the grey point was getting just a touch green. Over 19,000mL. They last for ages so long as you don't get head strikes, but colour shift is the decisive factor for when to change them, not...

Both. Sometimes I am, sometimes I'm not. For that short poster it was just hanging out of the printer -it wasn't even long enough to touch the floor.

I appreciate all that feedback, but you must have missed the part where it only happens after the printer has been on for a while, the same as the lag. When you first turn the printer on, and for the first couple of hours, it is perfect. No lag, no skew, no head strikes.

This one is a wierd one, and it's definitely a machine fault, but I wanted to see if anyone else has experienced anything like it. It actually started as three seemingly unrelated problems that now seem to be very much related. The first issue we had was that after the printer had been on for a...

Straight up dust & fingerprints. It's not ink related I can guarantee that. The only way you could possibly look at it being ink-related is if you're not running the prints hot enough, so the ink doesn't cure properly and stays wet for longer, exacerbating any issues related to dust on the...

That is the effect that you'll get. As was mentioned above, you may need to bump up your ink density to get enough saturation, otherwise it may end up too subtle. Since there are a lot of Windows, I'd suggest you do some small trial prints and stick them on the customer's glass before you do the...

I have a HP bigwig coming on Thursday/Friday. Will post the results. Also have another critical issue which I'll make a new thread for.

What exactly is the problem? Without pics you're going to need to describe the issue.

Just making sure you understand the colours will be washed out? Because CMYK inks are translucent, they effectively multiply over whatever is "behind" them - be that a white print surface, or whatever image comes through a clear glass. Think of it like an overhead transparency film. So it won't...

Does anyone know why HP haven't released a 3rd generation latex printer at the 2600mm width like the L28500 is/was? We have a 360, an L28500 and an L260, and now that we're used to the speed of the 360, printing on the L28500 for anything wider than 1600mm is so tedious. I have been keeping an...

Yeah, it's likely that you have Media Length Tracking on, turn it off and see if that works.

If you can at least get a hold of your HP consumables supplier, just order an Ink Maintenance Kit. It's cheap, and replaces the hose (among other small things) as they're a consumable. I'm 95% sure it'll fix it.

Is it just me, or does the sample print (black text on yellow) look like the ink has bled from being too wet? If your temps are too low or you're putting down more ink than the media can handle, the ink will not cure in the drop position and bleed out exactly like that.

Looks to me like a Blackletter font that's been bastardised. They've applied a thick outline with rounded corners to fatten it up, then manually adjusted elements on the M. If I were a betting man, I'd say someone has made it so it can be trademarked, meaning it can't just use an existing font...

Yeah, the file was obviously originally created in a program that can't process a true gradient, so it splits the colour band in to heaps of tiny strips, each incrementally changing from one colour to the other. The long-winded process I would follow would be: * Lock all the items that are...

Or just two layers of SAV (no white ink required). Reverse-print clear, positive image on white, laminate together. If it needs to be blockout we use three layers - reverse-print clear, then an unprinted white layer, then a positive image on white with blockout adhesive.

Ah yes. 3rd party inks. They'll be the issue. There are some that work - our Roland SP540V was delivered with bulk Teckink from the supplier, never had a problem. We were coaxed in to converting to a bulk ink for the Mimaki, (different supplier), it almost killed me. We only agreed because they...

"... Media profile test.zip". Interesting. I wish I was at work to look at it.