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I've done horizontal seams on things other than vehicles and they are tough enough to get good alignment. I'd imagine contours, even those as simple as a cargo van, would add even more frustration. Perhaps there are others here who have used horizontal panels with success.

Really hoping he wasn't jammed up and waiting for a solution to this for the past 4 years!

I'd never attempt horizontal unless you could get it in one panel. If multiple panels are needed it should be done vertical, starting at the back and working forward.

So you're risking the print heads, possible skin irritation liability, and unknown results? Why not just sub it out to someone with the equipment and be done with it?

Thanks for this! I may still call HP - when I have time. Nice knowing nothing is going to fail in the meantime.

This was my thought, but there isn't anything that is raised very high. We've had some fairly large bumps prior with no noise. I removed those before this started.

Our FB has been making a noise when the sheet is finished and the last foot or so is ejected from the machine. It sounds almost like a honk. Further examination leads me to believe that the alignment bar is slightly touching the belt, and when it quickly ejects there is a bit of resonance making...

We use IJ35 w/8508 lam. Leave a 1/4" gap all the way around or you'll get premature failure on the edges.

I like it. I will have someone do that today.

We have an older (almost 10 years I think) Seal Image 62 that has been acting up lately. One of it's more frustrating new features is that when trying to lower the top roller it will get all the way down, then continue on up to the top, and then back down. It will just go up and down for 1-2...

What type of vinyl did you use?

Just had to do this. Not as easy as it should be: http://design.tutsplus.com/tutorials/quick-tip-create-a-conical-gradient-with-adobe-illustrator-in-two-minutes--vector-3898

Never heard of it. Took a look and quickly ran away. I know that isn't much help, and doesn't answer your question, but when has purchasing cheap supplies from China ever worked out... for me, never.

Got to be a #11. I too have two separate handles, one with a brand new sharp blade and one that's been worn, and that handle does 95% of the weeding. If I have to put a new blade in the worn handle I typically spend a couple seconds rubbing it on the cement floor to get it to the proper sharpness.

We've got a job on the table cutting 1,000+ small tags from .060" HIPS. A simple score from a #11 and it snaps cleanly. Much easier than cutting 3mm PVC, which is simple enough on its own.

Careful with this. We've successfully warded of scurvy with dihydrogen monoxide and ascorbic acid. (also known as water and vitamin C).

We love it. As previously mentioned in other threads, .080" aluminum takes some doing (2 people, perhaps some bouncing on the pedal). It's saved hours of not having to cleanup edges, saw dust, metal shaving. A lot of our production staff is regaining their hearing now that the saw isn't on all...

Hard hat decals should be laminated. I'd say the same for coffee mug decals. That would solve the problem. For decals that don't require lamination I'd just bid in an extra day for curing.

Let it cure for a day prior to sending it through the plotter. Lamination may help this as well, but lamination is not always required for print-cut jobs.

I think you may need to head back to the drawing table. A printer should be paired with a laminator for one, or else your options are truly limited for in-house production. Call it $20,000 for printer, inks, laminator, installation, etc. Your ROI should be about 2 years. The cost savings on...