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I have high tack transfer coming in tomorrow from my vendor, so we'll see how that works. This has turned into a classic "if you had us install it, we would've made it work and it would be done" situation.

I think I have my answer. Thanks though.

But why would one do that for the application I am asking about? I can kind of picture making it work, but it seems kind of odd.

Are you saying that you punch the finished piece out of the release paper?

It is a couple of lines of text going up in a small boutique... It would be possible to do it all free hand, but it would be extremely time consuming. They really liked the finish of the PhotoTex and have particular pantones they want to hit. I said, "OK" to the job when the salesperson here...

I have been working with PhotoTex for a little bit and just recently tried to do a job with contour cut text... It has been a complete failure so far because I can't find a transfer tape that will stick to the face of the PhotoTex aggressively enough to pull it off of the release liner. Any...

I totally get it. Use the pipe like a sleeve and shoot the tapcon down the middle of it. Awesome. :notworthy: This also solves my concerns about things tipping downwards because of the space. Phew what a relief. So simple, I wish I could say I had though of it...

Thanks for the advice! I will make sure to buy some long tapcons... I am using pressure treated 5/4x6" boards as spacers. They are going to be tapconed into the wall and the sign will be screwed to them.

I did a search, and found one or two helpful things, but am still coming up short of what I need. I am installing a 5x8' alumilite sign on a building that has a stucco/styrofoam facade over cinderblock. I did some test holes and can't see to find any studs or facing other than the cinder...

Should I print with or without an overlap when using PhotoTex? In the past I have done both, depending on the media and situation... but this is my first shot with PhotoTex. One other thing to note: The customer will be installing it...

Static? Some of the media I print on have been "sticking" to the rear heater and buckling a little before the weight of the graphic over comes the static charge -- most of the time... I did have something hit the plexi shield over the print area the other day... Could this have happened?

The DisplayFlex comes in a 5mil version as well -- you could probably use that since the substrate will give the graphic rigidity and the lexan is just needed as a protective layer.

LexJet makes some nice laminates for tradeshow applications. http://www.lexjet.com/lexjet/product_disp.asp?dept_id=13422&pf_id=DFPL10 I don't know if they use any resellers, but you can set up an account right through lexjet. EDIT: If you buy Photo Tex from someone, they can probably get you...

The pool table has only three sides...

oops! Sorry about that... replied to the wrong thread...

To answer the original question... Going to back to the original question of why the lam is bigger... Does anyone remember the days before inkjet and solvent printers? Before ADHESIVE BACKED vinyl was readily available? When I first started in the POP and tradeshow display industry...

:scream:... Goolges the pooper... I would say that's what got him into trouble the first time!:ROFLMAO:

Hey you know... comes with the job.

Hello from just up the street! Well 45 minutes up the street... ok, so it's an interstate not a street...

Ad for Copenhagen Zoo on a city bus. Awesome optical effect!