Search results

if you get something like that again check these guys out https://www.lindenmeyrmunroe.com for paper products

i offer solutions not safety ;)

i have a few of these ladders and scaffolding plank worth it's weight in gold

one other thing are you inserting all the removable pinch rollers ? that will help hold the print in position while it's cutting

thanks. i found a pic of one of their old trucks that i did not letter and it just had DOT so i am assuming i just copied what they already had and didn't notice it.

not sure what i screwed up but lettered a truck last week and when i ran the lettering i only put DOT# not USDOT#. trying to get an exact answer online and can't find anything but is just DOT# acceptable or does the law require it to be USDOT# ?

these are the only out of the ordinary jobs. everything else just your everyday lettering and sign hanging. custom made golf tee box markers, surf board graphic and printed yoga mats

the problem is the VG printers haven't been used long enough for the rollers to be bad. in 15 yrs i have replace 3 rollers and we have 4 rolands. i agree that can be an issue but in my opinion we haven't had the machines long enough for the rollers to be bad. check the pinch roller assembly...

yeah we are having a similar issue with our VG-540 turns out the two end pinch rollers had minor cracks and we are waiting for the replacement. hopefully that's all it is. when the rollers are clamped down they should not move.

this is a new one for me so have a question... if i am making a back-lit panel and using inkjet printable translucent vinyl should i still use translucent white acrylic/polycarbonate or should i use clear? not sure if the translucent white and the translucent vinyl will block too much light?

yeah i left out that part, which is very important. where is your service tech located and where do supplies come from, how quick can either of them get to you when you need them.

just my opinion but i think roland and mimaki are close in quality and production. pricing i didn't notice them being that different (at least from the dealers we dealt with) i think it depends on sales and which machines they want to move at the time. we have all rolands and our last one was...

grab your kids roller blades...haha fellers has some 3m roller tools that would work for that but they are not cheap. if you are doing enough of this it will pay for itself in the long run (just tack a couple extra dollars on the job)

yeah have to re-do the whole sign. it was done by someone else but now they want to add the pizza. but i have to make whole new panels. i told him that i can't pull the vinyl off and re-use it. surprisingly he was ok with that. based on all the suggestions (thanks for the help) seems like...

working on a large back-lit sign and just wondering what/which vinyl everyone would use in this situation. oddly enough never had to do a sign with this many colors and detail. would you use all translucent vinyl for this job or use standard colored vinyl for the backgrounds and just use...

which ever way works best and the fastest for the employee is fine by me. me i go in the direction of the most open letters/numbers. E, C, F, G, ....and so on. i weed towards the opening seems to work best and fastest for me

yes ask the silk screener about it. we have never tinted brushed metal but we have tinted materials and they maybe able to help you. if you screen it you will get a good finish

do you have any silk screen companies in your area. they might be able to help you out

we have used flexcon polyester and also aluminum w/ a 3m high temp adhesive in the past for high temp situations like this. but double check temps with engine maker as suggested and with material manufacturer to be safe

base vinyl and the lam are shrinking at different rate so you can get edge curling or the lam will just shrink and leave a gap at the edge of the graphic/vinyl which dirt will stick to. (anywhere from 1/16 to 1/8 gap maybe more depending on the material)