An order fell in my lap - now how do I do it

[WeekendDirectionals]

We normally just two do things, we place Open House signs for just shy of 200 communities on weekends and we install lot signs for a one builder (about 100 a year).


The lot signs are 18 x24 coroplast and mounted to a 4 x 4 which we place with a two man auger.

Now a client has asked us to place five 4 foot by 8 foot double sided signs for an auction.

Will 10mm coroplast hold up or should I look at something else?

On 3 other ones 4x4 we did a couple years ago I used 4mm coroplast applied on both sides of plywood. Those signs are still up. These 5 need to last 5 weeks until they have an auction, but I would think 4 x 8 could get a lot of wind.

Suggestions on materials and framing would be greatly appreciated. This Real Estate Company does about 50 auctions a year.

 

[Salmoneye]

How about a sheet of MDO mounted between 2 4x4's?

 

[Desert_Signs]

Over 3 years ago, I put up a "temporary" now leasing sign. 2 4x4 posts, with 2 pieces of 4mm coro, one on each side. Then, the economy crashed. That sign is still up and still looks good. I used screws and big fender washers to secure the coro. I honestly figured it would have come down in the first windstorm, but it's still there. I'm amazed every time I drive by...

I think you'd be fine with 10mm.

 

[Typestries]

We print a lot of 10mm coro for a shop here in jersey for this exact purpose. We print it on 2 sides and they screw it to 4 x 4's. The art comes in 4" on each side on the "second side" to account for the posts.

 

[Locals Find!]

10 mil will hold up just fine. I have done tons of these for the Real Estate industry. If your going to be 8 foot wide plan on having to brace in the center. Just keep that in mind when laying out your artwork. I usually crop out that section of artwork and apply it to the post on the backside so it all seems together visually. I am sure their is probably a better way. I just don't know it.

 

[signguy 55]

I have done these before.

Do your 4x4 posts as usual. I get 2" x 2" x 8' treated pieces and screw them to the posts (after cutting down to 4' of course). Screw your 10mm to these side pieces. Just to be on the safe side get another 2" x 2" and run horizontally the full length across top and bottom since 10 mm does tend to bow. I paint the strips white with cheap latex just to blend in better. Screw your 10 mm to these for extra support. You could use a 2" x 4" if you feel wind is going to be an issue.

On your layout just leave some extra white space for the fastening area.

I had a sign up for over a year installed this way.

(For me there's less stress on the sign to install on site after posts are installed and squared up.)

 

[Craig Sjoquist]

10 mil works fine holds up well. 5 weeks no sweat.

 

[ChicagoGraphics]

10mil and 2 U-channel post is all you need, I do it all the time here in the windy city

 

[OldPaint]

10 mil is fine. DONT NEED TO BRACE IN THE MIDDLE!!!!

 

[Locals Find!]

10 mil is fine. DONT NEED TO BRACE IN THE MIDDLE!!!!

If your going 8 feet wide x 4 high you have to brace it. You take anything that wide and with that much surface area only braced on the sides. Its going to fail bad. Its just not strong enough by itself sitting in the open.

Now if your going only 4 foot wide x 8 foot high then you will be fine.

I made a drawing for you to understand me better OP since you can't read very well apparently.

 

[MikePro]

I make mine out of MDO and 4x4 posts.
if you dont want to dig, make the legs T-frames and sandbag it (or stake with steel reebar like i do)

 

[Billct2]

10mm will be fine, no added braces needed

 

[JTBoh]

If your going 8 feet wide x 4 high you have to brace it. You take anything that wide and with that much surface area only braced on the sides. Its going to fail bad. Its just not strong enough by itself sitting in the open.

Now if your going only 4 foot wide x 8 foot high then you will be fine.

I made a drawing for you to understand me better OP since you can't read very well apparently.

SO lemme get this right... 4'x8' is bad when braced on both sides, but 8'x4' is fine when braced only at the bottom? Same surface area. More wood to buy + deeper hole your way.

BTW - iirc, you don't actually install signs, was that correct?

 

[Gino]

Without mentioning names, I've never seen a post in the middle of a 4' x 8' sign regardless of what substrate was used for the sign itself..... anyway, not a temporary sign [2 or 3 years]. Possibly for aesthetics on permanent signs.

If the correct substrate is used and the posts are prepped correctly, you'll have no trouble with 4" x 4" posts routed with a 10mm inserted between them. For five weeks this should be all you need. However, if they are gonna use these over and over, I'd go to 1/4" alumalite, instead or 1/2" MDO.

The sled idea is the ideal way to go.........

 

[GoodPeopleFlags]

You don't have to put the posts all the way to the end of the board. Bring the posts in about a foot from each side. That will give it more stability. No braces needed. 10mm coro is perfect for the job.

 

[Ponto]

You don't have to put the posts all the way to the end of the board. Bring the posts in about a foot from each side. That will give it more stability. No braces needed. 10mm coro is perfect for the job.

+1.... this... (and I've never seen a 4x8 "braced" in the middle either....

JP

 

[10sacer]

I do 8x4 signs with alumacore all the time with two posts and no brace.

 

[HulkSmash]

the only time.. the ONLY time you would need to use a brace is if you use 3mm dibond.. and if that's the case, you're using the wrong substrate. 10mm coro and 1/2 inch mdo is just fine without a brace. Sorry addy.. no bro.. just no

 

[Salmoneye]

Some of this depends on the wind in your area, we get winds up to 80mph regularly. The wind laughs at T posts that are sandbagged. I put out a 4" square tubing framed sign with 'T' legs extended at the bottom with a 4' x 6' insert and sandbagged the heck out of the bottom. Found the sign after it was blown, flew or tumbled about an 1/8th of a mile! That was the last one for me, I see these blown over all over town. These suckers are very heavy and I don't want the liability when one finally comes down and hurts someone. I guess I try to overbuild as a result.

 

[MikePro]

Sandbagging is optional and if you're building it you should brace accordingly if you dont expect ideal conditions. I've also grown to realize that "temporary" usually ends up being years with plenty of updates along the way. I always stake my t-frames with steel rebar. Just make sure you're not going to pierce an underground line that could cost ya.

 

[royster13]

Glad to see all these "professionals" with differing opinions getting along so well!...lol....