CNC HDU Sign

[rkiefer2]

I finished machining my 3' X 8' X 1.5" HDU sign and am getting ready to start painting it. This is my first dance with HDU. The machining and fabrication went perfect and I don't want to mess it up on the finish.

Fabrication Steps
1. Machining - DONE
2. Sand all surfaces 220 grit - DONE
3. Vaccum HDU dust - DONE
4. Prime (Sign Prime) - PENDING
5. Paint (One Shot Enamel Lettering Paint) - PENDING

Questions
1. Am I missing anything or did I do anything stupid?
2. Is Sign Prime Oil base or water base? If oil, what is recomended for cleaning the brushes?
3. One Shot is high gloss oil based enamel. MFG says use One-Shot Brush cleaner. Will any alternative work for cleaning brushes? Mineral spirits?
4. What do I do for finishing the back of the sign? Primer only? Cheap paint?

Any advice is appreciated.

 

[Techman]

don't use 1shiot.

Back of sign use any old good latex..

 

[rkiefer2]

I was under the impression that One-shot was one of the best. Is there a alternate brand you suggest?

 

[signmeup]

I use a latex primer for aluminum siding... 2 coats. Then I use Pittsburg Sunproof latex house and trim paint... 3 coats. I like eggshell.

 

[signmeup]

Forgot to say... Wash the sign off with a garden hose with decent pressure. Vacuuming will leave dust behind and you could have adhesion issues down the road. Let it dry thoroughly before you paint it. Blowing it off with air won't cut it either.

 

[SignStudent]

From what I've gathered reading on this forum one-shot used to be the best but they changed the formula and now it sucks. Don't remember what people are using now instead though. Just do a search, I know it's mentioned in more than one thread.

 

[Techman]

benjamin moore high grade latex exterior paint is good. Some are getting plastic smooth finishes with it.

 

[Jillbeans]

I would not use Sign Prime. I know someone who did and after their CNC routed HDU sign was installed the paint (latex) constantly bubbled. They had to replace a very expensive sign and eventually got rid of their router due to the PITA of it all.

I'd do as Signmeup suggests, he has a lot of experience.

I would NOT use 1Shot unless you want your sign to fade in two years.
The black, bright red, and imitation gold are particularly troublesome.
(used it since 1985 but in the past two years I have switched to Ronan lettering enamel)
If you are going to go ahead with the 1 Shot just use turpentine. Their brush cleaner sucks too.
I never use mineral spirits because they can dull your paint if left in your brushes.
Love....Jill

 

[visual800]

please do not use one shot and wuin a good sign before you get started. one shot is crap you need to use latex. I would prime with flat ext lates and then topcoat with satin on semigloss ext, we use benjamin moore paints.

now go into shop and throw alll the one shot out

 

[SignProPlus-Alex]

Prime both side of the sign.
Paint both sides with latex paint twice (color of the background)
Sand a face of letters with 220 grit sand paper.
Paint letters with whatever paint suitable for outdoor usage. (one shot or not)
Take a bunch of pictures.

 

[Billct2]

We wash, prime with auto high build, top coat with Grip Guard.

 

[signmeup]

The washing part is very important if you are going to mask and paint any other colours onto your sign. The primer I use is 8010 Home Hardware brand. You guys don't have Home Hardware so you'll have to find an equivalent. The big deal with 8010 is it sticks to stuff, it's high build, and you can sand it mammary skin smooth with 320 grit in one swipe.

 

[rkiefer2]

One Shot is out based on your expertise. Thanks for saving me a head ache.
I went to one of the local stores, Fleet Farm, that supposed to sell Benjamin Moore paint and they don't have any exterior as its out of season. I will try one of the other suppliers of BM paint.

Has anyone had any luck with Sherwin Williams exterior paint?

 

[signmeup]

Can you get Pittsburgh down there?

 

[rkiefer2]

We have Pittsburg, but not the Sun Proof product line. The problem I'm running into is most of the sellers and suppliers of paint have returned the exterior paints as its winter here (Wisconsin).

Menards has Pittsburg Grand Distictions paint which is supposed to be higher end. Home Depot has Behr paint and I have a call into Sherwin Williams to see what they recommend.

Think its safe to go with Pittsburg Grand Distinctions?

 

[signmeup]

No idea. I use the Sunproof house and trim paint. If it's house and trim paint it should be fine. Where I live they keep paint year round and mix the colours as required. Hard to believe you live in a more backward place than I do.

 

[SD&F]

Mathews Paint

 

[rkiefer2]

Think I'm going to roll the dice. My sign supplies have to special order everything and I don't have the time to wait.

My options are down to Behr exterior paint and primer in one or Pittsburg Grand Distinctions. Called Sherwin Williams and I of course I got the all our paints will work.

Am I over thinking this or will one of the box stores high end paints be sufficient?

 

[jkdbjj]

Never done these kinds of signs before. I am about to buy our first router. I don't mean to hijack your thread, but maybe you or someone else can answer my newbie questions.

On the picture you showed in your first post, how does one go about painting this? Supposing the letters are to be red, and the recessed area yellow. Do you mask certain areas, or just carefully paint, or what? What are the steps? Is there a book available for beginners of this type of signage?

Also, the small little sides on the edge of the letters the separate the letters from the recessed areas, do those get the recessed area color, or the letter colors?

Anyway, I know nothing

 

[tbullo]

I would spray both sides with primer of your choice( I like fsc-88 for the smooth finish it leaves). Then I would spray the backround color( usaully 2 coats). Then I would hand paint the top of the letters with a lettering enamel. If you get a run over the side, you can touch it up with a small brush and the backround color.