Lighted sign...I think I can do this?

[Stacey K]

New business would like a quote for this lighted sign box. Box appears to be in good repair and lights work. I've done lettering on existing boxes but I have not replaced the substrate yet. I think this looks like a good project to tackle for me as a first timer. Size is approximately 9' x 22". Easily reached with a couple ladders.
1. What material would you recommend for the substrate?
2. Looks like the ends come off and I just slide the material in?
3. Logo colors are red and blue, American Flag type logo
Thank you!

 

[Cross Signs]

White acrylic, .177'' Sides (retainers) do come off for installation. If there is an existing sign...measure that one to make new face.

 

[Stacey K]

There is not an existing sign the old tenant took it with him. I'll grab a ladder and get up there to measure - anything I need to be aware of? Thank you for the quick reply, I'm excited to try something new!

 

[Rocco G]

For the material, since it's 108" long you will probably have to go with polycarbonate. Just make sure to price the materials all out before quoting the job. You'll have to buy material that is at least 48" wide by the length. And please, don't use 1/8" thick plastic even though it's only 22" tall. Use 3/16" thick.

Usually the ends come off and you can slide the panel in from the end. However, once in a while it's an extruded cabinet where you need to remove the whole retainer and that's a bit more involved. Photos would help.

For the logo, depending on the design I'd almost certainly use translucent vinyl. However a lot of folks now use digital prints instead. I admit to being a dinosaur but am using prints more and more.


Good Luck with it!

 

[Texas_Signmaker]

Measure the inside track area that the face slides into. It should be like 1/4" or 1/3" smaller then the overall cabinet. I wouldn't use acrylic, use polycarbonite. I'd cut the panel 1/4" shorter than the frame allows so that way you have room to slide it in and room for error when sawing it.

You remove the retainer or framing on one side of the sign, slide in the new face and reattached the retainer.

Anyone else give the sign face a few good "test pushes" to make sure it stays in there well?

 

[Cross Signs]

Woops. I originally read that the sign was 9 inches by 22 inches. Polycarb would be better to use. and I agree on 3/16'' thick

 

[rjssigns]

Polycarb with second surface graphics. I have a local shop make mine.

 

[Stacey K]

Here are some pics, sorry I forgot to include...

 

[Billct2]

Looks like a simple replacement. Measure the box and subtract the thickness of the box wall to get the face size, then subtract a 1/4" from that for expansion/contraction.
Personally I like acrylic (it's whiter when it goes in and doesn't yellow as bad as poly)) when I can use it and if you can do it with one piece that's how I would go.
If the design allows use translucent vinyl, it looks good and lasts longer than a digital print. If you go digital be sure it's a day/night print (fabricated to look vibrant both lit and unlit

 

[Texas_Signmaker]

Here are some pics, sorry I forgot to include...

Looks like a very simple cabinet face change, that will be a good one to start with. I wish my first one looked as good.

 

[MikePro]

simple replacement. at those dimensions you can go with polycarb or acrylic.

reference above to subtracting 1/4" from horizontal/vertical dimensions isn't so much for expansion but rather for the actual fit of the plastic.... as the frame itself is up to 1/8" thick material, so the insert dimensions are always slightly smaller than the overall frame size. I, personally, knock an additional 1/8" off that, so 21.625" x 107.625" overall plastic size as to not get jammed-up sliding it in.

noteable takeaways from the survey should be cabinet size, recommended plastic size/thickness (usually 1/8"-3/16"), and our graphic designers LOVE having visible opening dimensions to confirm their graphic layout doesn't get cropped by the frame.

 

[Texas_Signmaker]

simple replacement. at those dimensions you can go with polycarb or acrylic.

reference above to subtracting 1/4" from horizontal/vertical dimensions isn't so much for expansion but rather for the actual fit of the plastic.... as the frame itself is up to 1/8" thick material, so the insert dimensions are always slightly smaller than the overall frame size. I, personally, knock an additional 1/8" off that, so 21.625" x 107.625" overall plastic size as to not get jammed-up sliding it in.

noteable takeaways from the survey should be cabinet size, recommended plastic size/thickness (usually 1/8"-3/16"), and our graphic designers LOVE having visible opening dimensions to confirm their graphic layout doesn't get cropped by the frame.

YES.! Visual opening, so many people have shit run into the retainer its stupid. Good reminder.

 

[CanuckSigns]

That doesn't look like any sign cabinet I've ever seen, where are the rusty screws and 6 lbs of caulking holding it all together. I bet the tracks aren't full of moss and maple keys either. They just don't make em like they used to

 

[Andy D]

YES.! Visual opening, so many people have **** run into the retainer its stupid. Good reminder.

I like to have a couple inches of dead space all the way around if possible. It's not usually a huge issue but try and keep in mind that the panel is cut short & and sitting low, it will need have more space from the edge to copy on the bottom than the top

.

 

[Jester]

If you go digital be sure it's a day/night print (fabricated to look vibrant both lit and unlit

What is a day/night digital print? A type of ink, a type of substrate, a printing technique, or ...?

 

[kcollinsdesign]

What is a day/night digital print? A type of ink, a type of substrate, a printing technique, or ...?

A translucent digital print needs a white layer for light to reflect through the graphic for day viewing. It is also recommended to double print the colors for more accurate color density (PRINT/WHITE/PRINT). Color density on a translucent digital print is important in order to keep the graphic from looking washed out at night.

 

[Jester]

A translucent digital print needs a white layer for light to reflect through the graphic for day viewing. It is also recommended to double print the colors for more accurate color density (PRINT/WHITE/PRINT).

Thank you!
I assume this would work when printing on clear as well as on translucent ("back-lit") media types. For example, print on clear then apply second-surface to translucent acrylic.
My printer (VG2) requires me to specify one of my clear media types before it will show me any white ink profiles. [Now that I type that... I haven't installed any back-lit media profiles. If I did, I suppose they would also allow me to specify white ink.]
(I hope this wasn't too much of a thread hijack. )

 

[Gino]

Usually a face is already there, so you can measure it, but when the face is gone.....an old trick is to take a long piece of .177 or 3/16" acrylic maybe 2 inches wide by say 4' or so and place it fully up against one end. Mark the cabinet exactly where it stops and go to the other end and mark it. Add the foot or so from the middle portion between your two marks and when you add it all up, deduct maybe 3/8" for your length. For the height, take a piece 20" long by 2" and do the same. Different manufacturers and some DIY home made boxes don't always follow the rules for dimensions. This will help in that respect. As you do more and more of them, you'll get real fast at it.

 

[Andy D]

A translucent digital print needs a white layer for light to reflect through the graphic for day viewing. It is also recommended to double print the colors for more accurate color density (PRINT/WHITE/PRINT). Color density on a translucent digital print is important in order to keep the graphic from looking washed out at night.

This! Double striking your print is fine in a few situations, depending on the color, and I guess it's fine for mom-n-pop shops who have customers who don't care, but it is not the correct way to print a back lit print.

 

[Andy D]

Thank you!
I assume this would work when printing on clear as well as on translucent ("back-lit") media types. For example, print on clear then apply second-surface to translucent acrylic.
My printer (VG2) requires me to specify one of my clear media types before it will show me any white ink profiles. [Now that I type that... I haven't installed any back-lit media profiles. If I did, I suppose they would also allow me to specify white ink.]
(I hope this wasn't too much of a thread hijack. )

someone dm me this morning about that, this is a copy-n-paste of several messages from that:
On the back of clear plexiglass: mirrored printed clear - white diffuser (not printed) - mirrored printed clear

UV lamination isn't required

You could use printable white translucent vinyl, and print to that mirrored: On the back of clear plexiglass: mirrored printed clear - mirrored printed white translucent vinyl.

There needs to be a layer of white between the two layers of ink, so that the back layer doesn't show during the day, only at night when
the sign is lit.

Two more things:
1- You will probably have to apply the second print wet, in front of a light to make sure everything lines up...
if an image in your art doesn't line up it doesn't really matter, it will look a little "soft", but text need to line up, especially small text, so focus on that.

2- Make sure you do a test, with some clear vinyls, the adhesive will become white and blotchy when applied wet.
I would make a small test and let it sit overnight the first time you make a sign this way.