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Need advice on 40' sign

SignManiac

SignManiac

New Member
I don't often do many back lit signs, but one of my best clients is moving into a new location and like everything else I do for them, said... Just take care of it. They will be re-facing the previous sign, and the sign that's there now is a really old Dollar General with a corrugated plastic face. I haven't been up in the bucket yet to examine closely, but I would guess it's made up of four 6'x10' panels.

I've redesigned the sign face for my clients and they love it as is. My question is this, what do you guys who handle signs like this recommend I do for the face replacement due to the size being 40' wide? Would I use two 6'x20' pan formed faces? Would this work with flat faces?, I'd be concerned with blow outs? What are any other options I might have?

Thanks in advance for any advice!
 

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signcrafters london

signcrafters london

New Member
Two 6' x 20' pan faces would work great, especially for servicing, but I'd say there won't be that many vendors who can pull faces that big.

Normally I'm not a fan of flat faces, but that may be your best option here. You could do it it in 3 or 4 panels, too. If I did use flat faces, I'd shoot a crapload of screws through the retainer to hold the faces in place.
 
Letterbox Mike

Letterbox Mike

New Member
I wouldn't try to do that as 1 piece flat, that would be a bear and a half to install to say the least. I'd go pan, and do either 2 or 3 pieces, make the seams fall between words and it won't look terrible. It's been a while since I did a multi-piece pan face, but Hendrick's Vacuum Forming has always done them for me and they're pretty good at making the seams butt together snugly so they don't stick out like a sore thumb.

The other thing you'll probably have to contend with is the retainer on that. If memory serves, those Dollar General signs are vacuum formed and the slide into a retainer that's about 2" thick instead of the common 3/16" or 1/4" for a traditional face. Meaning, the box might need some surgery to retrofit new retainers to hold a thinner face stock in place. And if you're going to that length, you might as well look at the possibility of retrofitting it for a flex face.
 
SignManiac

SignManiac

New Member
CiberSupply-TT said:
What about rolled lexan? Is the box lighted; working?
Click to expand...

From what I've been told, the box is lighted and does work. I'll be pulling the faces regardless, so when I'm up there I will inspect everything inside. More than likely replace all the bulbs and ballast at the same time so the client gets off to a fresh start.
 
SignManiac

SignManiac

New Member
Well I think the first rule of order is to get into the cabinet and see how it is put together. That's probably going to dictate what my options are... I like the flex face idea too.
 
HulkSmash

HulkSmash

New Member
If you end up using lexan or acrylic, why not do it in 1 piece? If you have 2 buckets it'll work the best. But if only 1 bucket for install, then i guess in 2-3 pieces would be alright.
alot of the times you can see the seams in a lit sign if not seemed perfectly.
 
signcrafters london

signcrafters london

New Member
Coloradosigns said:
If you end up using lexan or acrylic, why not do it in 1 piece? If you have 2 buckets it'll work the best. But if only 1 bucket for install, then i guess in 2-3 pieces would be alright.
alot of the times you can see the seams in a lit sign if not seemed perfectly.
Click to expand...
One piece might be an option if the retainer is hinged from the top, but I still wouldn't want to do it. Would you want to letter and transport a 40' sign in one piece? I wouldn't. Never mind trying to install it easily. More importantly, it would be a nightmare to change lamps and service, as well.
 
Gino

Gino

Premium Subscriber
We did one similar to this a few years ago where we replaced a corrugated face with flat faces. Flex-faces were completely new at the time.... and it was about two inches deep like mentioned, so we shimmed the face flanges. Stuck three 6' x 11' sheets in there and put a few small wires down the middles.

We glued a clear 6" strip to the back of the middle panel on both ends and wired them closed. We installed bumpers because of possible air getting in there and blowing out a face with back-pressure. It held up for the next 15 or so years until about a year ago, when they tore the whole complex down.... sign and all.

The size you mentioned would be a nightmare to service for any reason. If you made a hanger and did it in sections that might work, but I agree... a retrofit flex-face would probalby be your best bet today.
 
MikePro

MikePro

New Member
i've installed such faces, solo, but its a PITA! 2 buckets or at least 1 with a guy on a ladder to assist, if you're doing rigid panels. Rolled lexan recommended, definately nothing that cracks (like acrylic), as 1-piece looks GREAT and there's really nowhere that a seam will look good enough for a "new sign".

Flex face can be a good option too. Doesn't take much to retrofit,

Don't forget to sell your client on new bulbs while you're at it, since it'll save them a bunch on a return trip when the old ones burn out.
 
F

FS-Keith

New Member
Def a job for a signcomp retro flex face. Gonna need a crane and a bucket truck or two for the install. make sure the electric is all good before you button it back up, def relamp it. Its going to be a 2 truck service call for a sign like that so make sure its good to go. My mind is drawing a blank on who made those dollar general signs, think it might be dualite or everbrite.
 
B

BBworks

New Member
I would like some help with the flex face. I dont know much about it and have always replaced flexface with acrylic. Now im forced to replace a flexface with a flexface? any tips on using the frame?
 
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