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Not sure about the vinyl but that usually happens to our vinyl if the plotter blade pressure is too strong. The vinyl kind of embeds itself into the backing.

http://www.macmall.com/p/HP-Monitors/product~DPNo~13471426~pdp.jaidihb :smile: You can buy 2 of those, and have $1,100 left to buy a slightly better video card for the resolution, same processor and other things to add up to what he paid for his. For roughly $400-$500 of what he paid, you can...

Top left. Perhaps throw in some "silver" in the color wheel for your name enhancement :)

My guess would be it has something to do with the way you are laminating the prints if everything is cured fine.

Got it! Have you attempted to do a quick live trace on the PNG? That way you can stay within the vector realm for consistency and easy manipulation.

I might've misread it but why would you not just use the Illustrator EPS and are making it a PNG->TIFF->EPS?

I've done a run on my FB700 of a giant 40' x 20' carpet, seamed quite a few times. http://www.ultraflexx.com/products/flooring-media/ultracarpet-extra The best is usually a dye-sub printer as it really soaks in but UV in our case wasn't too bad :) Haven't tested the durability of it as in how...

I'm not familiar with that printer but does it happen to have an ionizer? My FB700 does and turning it on saved me a few times from these.

What color is the substrate? It just looks like a print on white gator. All the whites without white ink appear Silver to me and the guy would be pretty much the silver surfer playing soccer when I print them on aluminum without white ink.

Printing on a UV flat bed will get you those... Will need to underlay white unless you want the silver to pop through where the whites are.

I guess they can't afford more letters for proper wording:Big Laugh

You could offset the letter, move it in the lower layer and change the color of the "shadow"... The one that's in your picture appears to have 2 light sources so you would have to do that by hand if it's indeed what you want and not a mistake on whoever created that art.

I find the best way to apply opticlear images is through the laminator. If you have enough people to help you run it through I would try it but be really careful with it as it's a big piece.

Design to look pretty on screen without the intention of printing anything out is definitely better in RGB however if you plan to print it, CMYK tends to give a closer result.

You're right about it being wider, it's just I find it easier to add 5% of yellow or magenta over letting the computer decide what the percentages will be. I guess I like to have more control over my inks, also easier to give the paint shop CMYK values to mix from, they usually get it close to...

Using RGB and then having RIP switch it to CMYK will make your color matching that much harder, you get a little more control with CMYK right away. As to matching, I do something like this... Not the fastest but definitely a good way to get in the vicinity of the chip...

Hi, just select a High Quality Print preset on the top and see if that works. Let it downsample, there is no necessity not to especially when you scale it to 1/10

It appears that it's basically asking to rotate the other tile 180 degrees. You could do it manually or I believe if you right click on the printer, Modify Printer... (or Change on the right), Setup, the bottom right has the option that says Flip Every Other Tile. I haven't personally needed to...

CS6 is the last version of the suite that was available before CC started. CC (stands for Creative Cloud) is basically a constantly self-updating version of the software that you pay for yearly but you get every software that comes with it from Illustrator, Photoshop, InDesign to After Effects...

If your first impression was Illustrator then you can't go wrong. You will however need the whole suite as Gino said, or at least a portion (Photoshop, InDesign) as sometimes client can supply an image that is in RGB and even though RIPs do interpret them, I had some cases where it read/printed...