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unless I missed the type of printer, if using VersaWorks, and EcoSol Max ink, could it be an Roland inkjet? I thought the trick to printing true greyscale ( Like K-only, whether it truly IS or not) was to select 'density control' in the Job Settings menu for color preset. I have NO idea what it...

I'm not sure why they'd recommend an up-cut? straight works for me on most all ACM etc. - lots of cooling air, keep the feed rate high enough that it doesn't melt the core of course -. if you can afford the time for a second pass, run the first at about + .010" oversize, then the final pass...

remember, the START of your roll is the END of their run, and vice versa, so pretty much anything can happen. A few years ago, Orajet cast 3951 had a weird 'spray' mottling on the first few yards...something in their process wasn't clicking, and every roll had this for quite some time. I've...

We once did a large sign with slate floor tiles as the background, pin mounting dimensional letters on the face, I think they were HDU...but could be Gemini letters, routed cut, etc. As others have said, an 'old' background really ain't gonna age any more! Stone, smalts, rusty iron, concrete...

sounds like adhesion AND a shrinkage issue. I'll bet the 'rubber' formulation has changed, waaaay less rubber, more plastic!...so it's not dimensionally stable. What worked before, will probably never work again!....I feel your pain! Since it hasn't been mentioned, on occasion we've mounted...

Ummm, yeah, not able to print/cut or laminate anything more than about 10'....things just don't track well enough...but in fact, most of my jobs are small wraps or 4'x8' type signage, so I've never had the NEED to address these issues. Roland Vs-540 won't print /cut well at all....my Royal...

Ouch! ...good thing I don't have that muscle group! :) ....this is actually not THAT weird...coming from a municipal sign shop....we have about 15,000 PARKING signs alone in our city of 110,000! So the traffic planners could be budgeting to upgrade all their old Engineer Grade type 1...

It's worth spending time at the FRONT end, which will save HOURS at the Back End! cut one line, weed, assess. put a new blade in the plotter, reset the force, cut, weed, assess. often less pressure, a bit slower, allows the blade to penetrate, without over cutting or scoring the backing...

My experience is that ACM will NOT survive anywhere within reach of vandals. If you are investing that much money in a sign, installation etc.....especially if reflective, then use at least .080" aluminum like traffic signs. That long a panel needs support in at least 3 places, or they are...

I guess I've done both; in the previous shop, I had room to run out on a table, kept the print flat and clean, quick to trim and process. This shop is tighter, so I had to manually roll it onto the take-up roller ( 3" core) which was almost a waste of time, especially if it wasn't tracking...

Hey, where's the auto-translate button? :) looks like a common problem in Croatia?; Folks, when I get a gray tone in print, I keep getting a purple tone. I have Roland vs 640 .....it's been a while, I'm thinking either convert the image to 'greyscale' or perhaps in the 'Quality' print set...

I'm also looking for good ol' sign tape....a few places that list it, are out of stock...supply issues? back in the 80's, it all came from some place in Switzerland? The Tessa tapes are the closest I can find, but the description online leaves me wondering how thick, flexible, etc. it is...

....evidently you haven't visited THIS trailer park before...that IS the kitchen table ma'am!

The Manufacturer of the 'engine turn' you want to use, will have specs on what it is print compatible with. You can test your own printer of course, using different profiles......and as many have said, explore other alternatives. I've found that an intercoat clear, like Frog Juice, will make...

Since nobody has mentioned it, once you have better materials, the installation can still ruin the job. I see the screws had been removed, great idea...but then overtightened when re-installed. That wrinkle from the screw rotating is the first point of failure, regardless of the quality films...

I had NO idea what it was! .....nothing new here.....the clueless, leading the blind, with waaaaay too much budget approval authority! around here, we have a graphic 'design' firm that just uses a red dot. For EVERYTHING! Morgue. Radio Station. Community College.....doesn't matter, does...

about 40 years ago, this stuff would bubble up vinyl, and then a second application would turn very old adhesive to goo......caused instant brain damage & cranberrying, like all 3M products that worked! No idea what is in it these days....obviously similar to the xylene/toluene based hot...

ok, I'm not a UV guy, but one more basic troubleshooting idea.....run the wood thru and print ALMOST NOTHING on it...like just a hairline at each edge, so that it passes thru at a normal speed....then you'll see if the UV lights are cooking something nasty out of the wood!

So I'm a guy 'thinkin' about latex...I HAVE to go HP if I want to print on 3M traffic reflective products.....but not liking all the problems that half the users are having. I hate my Roland enough to put up with SOME B.S. from HP, but not a lot. ( older and crankier now!) How many of you out...

Don't do a wrap at all!.....a waste of time in my opinion, with the high likelihood of failure in the seams. How good is the paint job?....typically if it's hard to prep, the painter won't get into the seams and angles properly....it's 'just a horse trailer'...right? fast and cheap paint...