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Just ordered a bunch of 6mm that is in stock. The 3mm is 27-35 days out. Aluminum is hit and miss but just ordered the 26 sheets left in 040 and 10 sheets in 063 that were left.

a Flatbed UV cant do too much of a curved surface or you will lose resolution. To get a good print the head gap needs to be a certain distance from the printed object. Once you get too far off of that it will look like overspray. We have 7 UV printers in total and they are all the same in...

Trying to cut cost on ink will only cost you more money on consumables like your print heads.

It will depend on your curing method. What i use is one part but needs high intensity light to cure. We used a one part before we switched that cured under black light but took forever. Ours cures through a conveyor in a few minutes. They were very helpful and sent out quite a few testers...

We use Dymax (dymax.com) for our resins. We go through about 30-40 gallons a year. As far as a dispenser goes look into Nordson (nordson.com). We have a 1 gallon reservoir and a digital pump/valve controller for dispensing.

Depends on the art. wont be able to read smaller text on mesh up close.

Stronger edge for grommets and no frayed edges. I guess if you can get by with it that is great. Nobody around my area would go for that. It looks cheap and unfinished. I do have a no hem material that I use for small 2x3 senior banners and such but that is it.

Might want to contact Nazdar about inks. They manufacture a lot of inks for many different printers.

Wont be able to make it a static cling. Only way would be to use mounting adhesive and stick it to the window.

Window Drop Down - Then Dockers - Transform (or Alt F7). Is that what your referring too?

I knew exactly what the specs said before we bought it. And for our shop we are good with that as we are not a high production shop. My point was don't go off what max speed says on boards per hour as you will never see that number. If you look at the EFI website the h5 does not list anything...

Keep in mind you wont run these machines at max speed to get quality prints. We run the EFI 24f and its not a high production machine like your looking. It says max speed is 36 boards/hr but to get quality that we want we are getting 8 boards/hr. Really need to get test prints and find out...

Probably going to be tough to find something not labeled as banner suitable for print. Any cut vinyl will stick to printable banner.

If it is smudging it is not curing. paper is a fine line between turning the heat up to cure without buckling the paper causing head strikes. I used to hate paper but since we got out HP latex I will print full rolls no problem. We mainly print SIHL 3686.

On our Zund we use a drag knife and get clean cuts even up tp 10mm coro.

Yes I do. email me at adam@superiorsigns.biz or call me at 316-263-4264. I have 2 brand new and one that was used for a while but replaced because they thought it was bad but I found a leak in the coolant line after I installed the new pump.

I would guess you don't have a vacuum bed? The Seklema mat is very sticky and I would probably not use paper on it but have never tried. We use them on some of our rotary engravers and when clean small brass plates are stuck down good.

we print pucks all the time. They will not last in a game/practice being printed on a UV printer. They are promotional style items. Even when the game pucks are screened they don't last. You have to remember depending on the level of play that the puck could be traveling at 80+ mph hitting...

We are lucky and have 7 UV printers in house. We print on the back side of acrylic and then do the raised letters/braille after. We are able to print 4x8 sheets and route them out quickly.

You would need an engraving machine to drill the holes for the Raster Braille beads, the Raster tools from Accent Signage and a laser engraver to cut the words and images out. A lot more equipment but we can manufacture signs a lot faster than printing. As far as engravers we use a Xenetech...