Search results

HASP key Searching that term might help.

Here is an idea that might work for some of you for generating sales. Do you take credit cards? Is your merchant services company local or have a local rep? Get to know them, they are always going after new businesses. As a sign shop you should be getting calls from new businesses...

We had a billboard in town here that was advertising "Jewlery".

Don't worry about the person with a cricut. We have a towing company here in town that bought there own vinyl cutter. Well, they pay twice as much for an aluminum blank as we do, so they try to re-use old blanks. They also have been accused by other towing companies of stealing signs...

If I understand your question correctly, no. The ink is meant to circulate to prevent the heads and caps drying.

I wish I would have gotten a screen cap. Working in Flexi 8.6 I modify a file and try to save it, I get an error dialog box that says; "No error detected" So glad its quittin' time. :wine-smi:

If at all possible, get a sign wharehouse tech to set up the laminator in your shop. After you get all the equipment up and running, get the system properly profiled by someone who knows what they are doing. That alone will save you time and money, more than you can imagine.

I will second iSign on not doing full coverage on static if it can be avoided. Can you remove the grit rollers? If not, then redesign or sub it out.

Not a superstition, but whenever I try to tape vinyl in front of anyone that works at another sign shop, I will always screw it up.

Find a dye-sub printer to sub it out to.

Some salient points, Your complete production system has to be profiled, from monitor to software to RIP to printer. Paint does not equal solvent ink, you can't compare them. A 4 or 6 color solvent printer will not match a 12 color water based printer output. I heartily recommend...

Whenever I get a customer asking for quantity breakdowns like that, I know they are more than likely already price shopping based on a website.

90% of the time I get crazy big files from designers. 90% of the time I tell them to save it as a full size tif, 96 dpi, lzw compression. 90% of the time I have to tell them twice.

I don't mention certain customers by name if I don't want to deal with them that day. Crazy, but it works.

And you got the best answer. "Do it right, remove the mirrors and handles." But if you want to go ahead and lay the vinyl over the handle and trim around, then do it. Go ahead, cut into the clearcoat, leave a ragged trim, and be proud of yourself for not giving the customer a reasonable...

What makes the biggest difference is your color workflow, from Photoshop to the RIP. That being said, I usually export a flattened tif, Adobe RGB, full size, 96 dpi with LZW compression out of Photoshop.

Possible ink starvation? On anything I do over 40 feet I try to remember to pause the print about halfway through to give the machine a chance to pump up the ink a bit, it seems to help.

I find it kind of hard to believe a short run of 24 would only be 3.49 ea from a screen printer. They have to be charging extra for art, the screen and shipping.

Check the voltage to the heads, and do a head alignment is where I would start.

I have heard of some types of paint cracking windows, but never of vinyl causing that.