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he may be correct, and mistaken, at the same time. one of the rolls loses a LOT of its thickness when the liner is removed, the takeup roll should hold an entire laminated roll BUT most likely won't hold two rolls of stock material with its backing. that being said, holding the feed roll is...

i do that too BUT that wasn't the question AND how would that sheet get laminated to the substrate to begin with? ...i like where you're head is at tho :) +1 to cutting upside-down, as I tend to nearly exclusively use upcut bits and anything pre-laminated to the substrate appreciates my efforts.

its most likely a photo-eye that you're looking for. a little doohicky that shines a red light to another dookicky, held in place by a phillips screw, somewhere in the path of where the metal coil travels to detect its position along the way. he wants you to loosen it so it wiggles back into...

HUGE fan of using my CWT table for laminating vinyl/prints/films onto up to ~6" acrylic. I'll even setup rails of scrap material and apply a full sheet to a table full of nested cut letter shapes for channel letters n' such. To each their own, but I feel it is much easier to have the substrate...

i print on vinyl all the time to utilize basecolor. I have no experience with ecosolvent, but I haven't had issue with latex or solvent prints in the past... always worth printing a sample, but keep in mind that metallic/reflective effects get drastically dulled with anything but...

oof, letters that big/thick we prefer to put at least pair of studs in it and secure rest with vhb&silicone. even just one pin would hold the letter up long enough for rest of the adhesive to cure, but i'm a big fan of at least two (one to hold-up, one to hold-square)

fun fact, you smoosh silicone flat and its no longer a good adhesive. add tabs of VHB or foam tape to create a proper gap for silicone to have strong hold.

interested to see photos of what you're referring to.... i've never seen LEDs bleach-out acrylic. Sunlight, however, will definitely chalk it up over time.

countour-cutting your shapes of white trans., rather than field-applying and trimming by-hand afterwards. works great for big stuff, but if you're doing individual lettering it becomes a PITA real fast.

it also makes it a bit more difficult to wrap 4-layers of material on a contour. much easier to apply separately, and place precisely.

we use both combos, and they both look great. huge fan of nesting&cutting the white trans with a ~1/8" inline from the backside of the plexi so you don't have to trim after application. white polycarb behind clear works too but needs to be cleaned every cpl of years of bugs&grit that get...

added tip, cause i'm here.... if you're dealing with thin-stroke lettering, lay a strip of vhb on some non-stick/vinyl backing & peel the tape's liner off as well. slice it up into 1/8"-1/4" tabs and plunk em on as you see fit. for the adhesive, I then fill the corner of a sandwich bag & clip...

well its definitely not gonna be me. ...and tape doesn't work too good when you wet it with adhesive :)

the VHB tape not only holds til the lexel/silicone cures, but it also creates a gap for a proper bead of the adhesive.

yeah, you gotta buff it out. ceramic/hydrophobic coatings can withstand a thousand+ washes. youtube vid linked of a guy examining ceramic vs. new graphene products, but skip to 57min mark to see the chemical resistance tests... and then bonus test at the end, where he finally removes both...

that's a blown capacitor rite there in the photo (left one swollen vs right one)

id bet its a thin polycarbonate layer or THICK laminate layer (potato, tomato) to protect against children picking/scratching the smaller decals.

congrats! HP is solid way to get your feet-wet. Don't be afraid to waste a bit of material to keep your leading-edge into if not past the heaters... my most frequent error is trying to start a print juuuust out past the pinch rollers and then when the media heats up it lifts and catches while...

UL Mfg. here. No desire to be a wholesaler/vendor, just love nerding out over signs & sign tech in my freetime.

HP & Mimaki are solid brands to pursue. While the HP would be the most user-friendly, I believe that your experience with 3D printing machines would make operating any solvent/UV/Latex fairly easy by comparison. i think you've got a solid reason to pursue the metallic w/ onboard cutter option...