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I would run a sub tank maintenance and see if any errors pop up. That will empty the sub tank and re-fill it. If it fails to fill, it should give you an error and then you will know it's an ink flow issue. If no errors pop up and it succeeds, it's probably something else. I've never seen ink...

What model? They have used the same ones for a long time.

Have you changed the primary filters on schedule? I notice a lot of ink flow issues when those are overdue. Also, I'd check the air tube connections and make sure they are tight. If they leak air, it will affect ink flow as well.

That's correct. You just have to clog one of the tubes or pull from both at the same time or else you'll just pull air.

Try James McGill - 270-243-0599 Also, now that you have new dampers, if it's doing the same thing, you might need to change the connectors and o-rings to get a better seal.

I got one! Not sure why they singled us out but I assume they thought we were making money off it. That being said, never pay for a manual! You can usually just find it on the internet for free!

Or you get a cease and desist letter from Roland. Ask me how I know :rolleyes:

Printers that print metallic ink generally can print gold and many other metallic colors. A Mimaki CJV150 can be configured that way but there offerings from most major brands.

Only way I can think of off the top of my head is using a profile with lower pass counts. It will move it forward more per pass. Hopefully someone who uses Rasterlink more than me has a better option!

Unfortunately there isn't a super straight forward way of doing it. My first thought was to make a file 73cm x 90cm with a white background and the text centered how it should be. Then go into the execution tab in Rasterlink and send 1 copy with the sheet cut feature turned on 100 times. When...

Try re-installing the driver. if that doesn't work, it's most likely a cable or USB port issue. I don't have a lot of experience with that model so might be off base but it's what happens on most cutters I've worked on when the USB fails.

The Mimaki JFX200 and 500 are known commodities, and great machines, but the JFX600 is brand new and has 16 heads. I'm not saying it's a bad machine by any means but with that many heads, the most likely scenario is you'll have to rely on Mimaki for service. I've seen dealer techs who are scared...

And make sure to set the work folder to the SSD.

I prefer the CJV150 over the JV100. It's a more polished machine.

In that case I would stay away from Roland and any other brand that requires tech credentials to get into service mode. Mutoh requires it for firmware updates but you can still get into service mode on your own. Mimaki has end user firmware updaters and it's pretty easy to find out how to get...

When I change print heads I usually put some vinyl between the head and the platen to make sure I don't dirty up someone's printer when the ink drips out. I've had multiple people ask to keep the resulting "abstract art"

That sounds like a damper issue to me for sure. Unfortunately you can't replace them without taking the head out of that machine. It's one of the pains of that model unfortunately. In the past I have taken that cover off and cut the parts that get in the way of taking damper out so that the next...

As Notarealsignguy mentioned, check your carts. If they are all good, check the bottom of the head for any damage or scratches. The warped look of the nozzles on the bottom part of the magenta look like signs of a head strike.

Mimaki fixes this problem by simply using a sponge material instead of rubber. Might be something worth trying in your experiment.

Contact Mimaki. They'll run samples for you for free.