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You cannot without the program. You have to depressurize the system through it to remove the heads and then to do other stuff. D1 forgot once and ink went EVERYWHERE here. Ruined the mainboard, a wall, the floor, lots of stuff. HOWEVER, some people here might be able to locate that software for...

I would do the flush/fill on those channels again, but it might be shot. I cannot remember, but can you park the head and soak it overnight with fluid in the caps on this machine? I wonder if the caps are sealing/lining up correctly when it is cleaning. Another thing I've tried before is to just...

I mentioned above another decent JPEG viewer, I've been using it a few months since I first encountered issues with my app and it seems to do pretty well. https://sourceforge.net/projects/jpegview/

I recommend Trigon Imaging for your equipment. They take care of you, even after the sale, if you have issues.

Sounds like the actual "X?" (across) axis motor or gear is bad. I know the gear can lose teeth and the motor can also go out. We replaced these on older Mimaki printers with similar issues and heavy use.

What vinyl & laminate are you using? Is it an interior or exterior wall? What type of paint/primer? There are a lot of factors that go into successful wall wraps.

Maybe using InDesign?

We ordered 10 or so rolls yesterday from either Grimco or Fellers, but they were 54". I can find gloss, but luster is an issue right now.

Print it with a half inch overlap like you would on a wrap. Locate the overlap location on the window. Use the knifeless tape and lay down a straight run under that seam area. Install the panels and pull the tape, and you have a perfect seam.

Theres a lot of factors here, but I want to add in that the base factor; low end vinyl, is the main culprit here. That would probably have failed if printed on any type of printer.

Have you tried this product? https://hartcoservice.com/sandmask/ I used to know someone who worked there, but that's been years ago. I know it is made in Ohio, so you might be able to call/order direct.

I use the standard (custom) profile we use for our wraps and everything else. However, in Onyx I add 10% to each color since phototex prints so flat/dull.

Yes, it does help to have heat assist. I recommend the GFP563th.

125 PPI for regular wraps, you can get away with 75 PPI sometimes on bus/trailer, but I prefer 100 PPI for those. I always work/view at full scale prior to production, but some larger wholesalers just print and don't check for issues.

We have used cut Avery chrome wrap vinyl for cut chrome lettering on trucks with good longevity. One thing I would recommend is to encapsulate the chrome with laminate (1/8" all around) to improve longevity and UV resistance. A good cast Gloss laminate will improve the shine and hide some of the...

As noted above - If you are concerned about longevity, you should only consider a 3M MCS warranted printer/inks. You will have to run the MCS inks and use 3M materials for the warranty to be enforced, but any quality material will definitely last and the inks will last on them. Do NOT get a...

I've been using a free program called JPEGview for a while now, the "photos" app has been too glitchy for me, but even it acts up. I randomly get the same (inverting colors?) issue viewing JPEGS with the Photos app myself.

For vehicles with as complicated of surfaces as these, 2D drawings / schematics are completely useless.

In this case it could be the plotter's accuracy affecting the final product in addition to the printer's size accuracy. They have their own X/Y calibration adjustments similar to the printer.

We don't do that many, so when I need one - I make it myself, the bulk of our work is commercial wraps. The only couple places that I trust for templates are ProVehicleOutlines and TheBlueprints, but neither of them specialize in templates like these.